I most certainly understand your dilemma and wholeheartedly wish that I could be more helpful. If you have followed all the directions on the tech sheet, and still have not reached a conclusion, ........(lol) ...........


.......I'm still going with the door switch. LOL


Please, ...if you would, ......do me a favor and post the final conclusion when you have reached it. "Cause, ....if it turns out to be anything else, I really need to know about it.

I make my bread and butter doing appliance repair and cannot afford to be making any mistakes out there in the field.

If I was looking at your machine, .....I would replace the door latch. If I turned out to be wrong, I'd put the old one back in and keep the new one for someone else who needed it.

Then I would start digging deeper on your machine. LOL

For the record, .....I have no Frigidaire door latch assemblies on my truck. That's because I have used every single one that I have ordered. LOL

It could be something else, like an rpm sensor, or dispenser sensor, or even a pressure switch. But, .....I usually only see that on Maytags and GEs.

Frigidair + drain and no spin = door switch ....every single time.

I've lost money on motors and boards because of this "very" issue and mis-diagnosed the problem because of misleading fault codes generated by the board which is intentionally programed that way by the manufacturer.

But, I've never lost money on a door latch.

LOL

It seems that it is a rather common problem. One way to confirm that it is the switch ; Remove the back cover on the controls and check voltage on the switch itself. Leave power on and timer in the spin position. Then one side of the switch will be 120 volts and the other should be the same (if the switch is ok)

I had the same problem that was solved by changing the switch. It cost me 40$ at a maytag parts reseller.

Watch out for shorting when you stick a probe in there !