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Gas Dryer Timer Advances Only In Time Dry Mode Not In Auto Dry Mode. Ignitor Glows, Flame Ignites But Heat Insufficient To Dry Load. Bias 'stat Continuity Checks Ok. What's Wrong?
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Originally Posted by: sluggo  Gas Dryer Timer Advances Only In Time Dry Mode Not In Auto Dry Mode. Ignitor Glows, Flame Ignites But Heat Insufficient To Dry Load. Bias 'stat Continuity Checks Ok. What's Wrong? Sluggo, Did you check and clean the exhaust venting, all the way to the vent hood ? Have you checked the drum felt seals for a tear or fold, or not sealing to the bulkhead ? You could have a bad temperature switch, stuck in low or medium heat setting. Make sure the drum speed is 50(+/- 2) RPM. You could also run the dryer empty, on an auto dry setting and observe the timer for a few minutes(10 to 15) if it does advance, your problem is in the areas I reccomended to check. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Sluggo,
Did you check and clean the exhaust venting, all the way to the vent hood ?
Have you checked the drum felt seals for a tear or fold, or not sealing to the bulkhead ?
You could have a bad temperature switch, stuck in low or medium heat setting.
Make sure the drum speed is 50(+/- 2) RPM.
You could also run the dryer empty, on an auto dry setting and observe the timer for a few minutes(10 to 15) if it does advance, your problem is in the areas I reccomended to check.
Good Luck,
:) :) :) [MODEL][/MODEL]re: whirlpool gas dryer 5500sq0 timer issue? checked what you mention except for stuck heat selector switch - no change. what now, check switch? How?
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Originally Posted by: sluggo re: whirlpool gas dryer 5500sq0 timer issue?
checked what you mention except for stuck heat selector switch - no change.
what now, check switch? How? Alright, Let's start at the top and work down, At the timer: Put dial in timed dry setting and check for a closed circuit between TM and Orange terminals on timer with wires off. Put dial in Auto dry cycle setting and check for a closed circuit between TM and white with black stripe terminals on timer with wires off. If you have those circuits, your timer will be OK. *** this is a live voltage test, so be careful *** Disconnect the exhaust vent Put the timer dial in auto advance cycle, and start the dryer . Check for 120 VAC across TM and White black wires on the timer. Voltage should fluctuate, on and off with the heat cycle, and timer should advance . At this point, no voltage would indicate a broken white black wire, down to the cycling thermostat, or a bad thermostat. Repeat the test again, with the exhaust vent connected, no voltage would indicates an air flow problem, and the hi limit thermostat is opening and bypassing the cycling thermostat . Let us know what happens, and we can move on from there. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Alright,
Let's start at the top and work down,
At the timer:
Put dial in timed dry setting and check for a closed circuit between TM and Orange terminals on timer with wires off.
Put dial in Auto dry cycle setting and check for a closed circuit between TM and white with black stripe terminals on timer with wires off.
If you have those circuits, your timer will be OK.
*** this is a live voltage test, so be careful ***
Disconnect the exhaust vent
Put the timer dial in auto advance cycle, and start the dryer .
Check for 120 VAC across TM and White black wires on the timer.
Voltage should fluctuate, on and off with the heat cycle, and timer should advance .
At this point, no voltage would indicate a broken white black wire, down to the cycling thermostat, or a bad thermostat.
Repeat the test again, with the exhaust vent connected, no voltage would indicates an air flow problem, and the hi limit thermostat is opening and bypassing the cycling thermostat .
Let us know what happens, and we can move on from there.
:) :) :) I was having the same issue. The timer part# was 3976569. I replaced it with timer part#3393934 whihc i understand can be a replacement. Now there is no heat at all. the starter doesn;t even glow. I ran the same test and it looks like i got a closed circuit with tm and white and black when it is in timed setting and closed with the tm and orange in the auto setting just the opposite of what it should be. i don't get any voltage with the tm and w/b wire so will check that but would like to know can these timers be switched like this? I also tested the coils and they are ok. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by: mnando88 I was having the same issue. The timer part# was 3976569. I replaced it with timer part#3393934 whihc i understand can be a replacement. Now there is no heat at all. the starter doesn;t even glow. I ran the same test and it looks like i got a closed circuit with tm and white and black when it is in timed setting and closed with the tm and orange in the auto setting just the opposite of what it should be. i don't get any voltage with the tm and w/b wire so will check that but would like to know can these timers be switched like this? I also tested the coils and they are ok. Thanks. Mnando, You're correct, the circuits for the timer you have are backwards, based on your post. Now you need to know if the timer terminals BK(black) and RD(red) are a closed circuit when the timer is set in any dry cycle, thats the timer heat circuit, and has to close in order for the gas valve to operate. You could have a new timer issue, but thats not a common occurrence, so you should re order the correct part and double check yourself when you wire the timer. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Mnando,
You're correct, the circuits for the timer you have are backwards, based on your post. Now you need to know if the timer terminals BK(black) and RD(red) are a closed circuit when the timer is set in any dry cycle, thats the timer heat circuit, and has to close in order for the gas valve to operate.
You could have a new timer issue, but thats not a common occurrence, so you should re order the correct part and double check yourself when you wire the timer.
:) :) :) The wiring diagram i have shows that when the timer is in auto reg/high i should have a closed circuit at tm/or, bk/bu and bk/red and open at tm/wb and bk/bu/v--for the timed reg/high closed at tm/wb, bk/bu and bk/r and open at tm/or and bk/bu/v. i found it interesting the the wb wire is merged with a black and blue wire that go down to the cycling thermostat--i had replaced that and the thermal fuse last year. not sure what now--the burner did come on but the timer did not advance--i checked the cycling thermostat and where the red wire attached got a closed circuit and where the violet wires attach it was open-- i have also checked the gas coils and igniter and they are good to go. there is a closed circuit on the red/black check although now i am not getting any voltage at the tm/wb now. thanks for the help.
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Originally Posted by: mnando88 The wiring diagram i have shows that when the timer is in auto reg/high i should have a closed circuit at tm/or, bk/bu and bk/red and open at tm/wb and bk/bu/v--for the timed reg/high closed at tm/wb, bk/bu and bk/r and open at tm/or and bk/bu/v. i found it interesting the the wb wire is merged with a black and blue wire that go down to the cycling thermostat--i had replaced that and the thermal fuse last year. not sure what now--the burner did come on but the timer did not advance--i checked the cycling thermostat and where the red wire attached got a closed circuit and where the violet wires attach it was open-- i have also checked the gas coils and igniter and they are good to go. there is a closed circuit on the red/black check although now i am not getting any voltage at the tm/wb now. thanks for the help. Nando, Let's get this right, I need the model number of your dryer. I'm not sure we're dealing with the same dryer as the previous post. We need that to make sure we get the proper wiring and circuitry, so we can get you going. :) :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Nando,
Let's get this right,
I need the model number of your dryer. I'm not sure we're dealing with the same dryer as the previous post. We need that to make sure we get the proper wiring and circuitry, so we can get you going.
:) :) :) :) Joe, Sorry about that. Jumped into the middle of a thread without giving enough info. Its a whirlpool lgr5636eq3. Last year with the help of this site diagnosed a bad thermal fuse. Replace it and the sycling thermostat and been working great til now. I had gone through all the check points you had laid out here until I found out the timer was operating basicall in reverse. Instead of getting a volt reading on the tm/wb i tried the tm.or and got a good reading. Everything else seems to check out just reverse of what was laid out before. Anyway I did notice when the drum i empty and it is in auto dry timer will advance and when I put cl;othes in it doesn't advance. I have also notice was appears to be a fine ash around the burner area. Again thanks for all the help!:)
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Originally Posted by: mnando88 Joe,
Sorry about that. Jumped into the middle of a thread without giving enough info. Its a whirlpool lgr5636eq3. Last year with the help of this site diagnosed a bad thermal fuse. Replace it and the sycling thermostat and been working great til now. I had gone through all the check points you had laid out here until I found out the timer was operating basicall in reverse. Instead of getting a volt reading on the tm/wb i tried the tm.or and got a good reading. Everything else seems to check out just reverse of what was laid out before. Anyway I did notice when the drum i empty and it is in auto dry timer will advance and when I put cl;othes in it doesn't advance. I have also notice was appears to be a fine ash around the burner area. Again thanks for all the help!:) Nando, Your dryer is working correctly, as designed. In the "auto dry" cycle the timer circuit (tm to orng) allows neutral to the timer motor, when the burner cycles off on the regulating thermostat neutral is accomplished to the timer motor and the timer advances. Your issue is most likely a clogged or restricted exhaust vent system, possibly a "weak" high limit thermostat, or an air leak at the drum or blower seal. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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timer issue??
(Washer Repair)
by ldutton
10/16/2009 8:09:22 AM(UTC)
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