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MrFixItAlready!  
#51 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 2:00:37 PM(UTC)
MrFixItAlready!

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Considering the fact that this is a theory-only guide unless you've got a meter in your hands, it does a great job describing how to use them! The last time I used one was in college (five years ago or more) and I think this is the best refresher I could ever find. If anyone asks me how to use a meter, I'll be sure to point them here. :)

And since you're so good about answering questions here, I've got a problem with my Fridgidaire dishwasher, model FDR252RBB2, that I'd thought was due to the plastic part that sits on top of the pump motor's drive shaft. The problem is that I hear the motor working, but no water flows into the dishwasher, just a small trickle and slight bubbling in the pump housing. There's a page at a competitor's site (Appliance Zone) that shows a picture of the pump and motor assembly (the part is hidden in the picture from this site) that shows the plastic part in question at the top of the picture. This site appears to be VERY aggresive about filtering any other web addresses, so I can't post their pic, a link to their page, or even their name without the space because it gets turned into a series of *'s. So to see the pic, go to
"www.appliance zone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=5047#", without the quotes or the space between appliance and zone.

The part is broken at the base of the shaft, where it meets the circular fins, so my assumption was that this part being broken is what was causing the issue. But just this morning I decided to double-check what was going on since I could clearly hear spinning inside the dishwasher when I opened the door during operation.

I removed the spray arm (there is only one for this unit) and diffuser and found that the upper impeller was spinning perfectly. So I removed the upper impeller, macerator, pump housing cover, pump slinger, volute cover, lower impeller, and seal one at a time, watching for any differences in part movement or blockage. Everything turns along with the broken part's shaft since the upper impeller screws into it and the rest of the parts slide down over it. When I took the seal out, it looks like it might be broken too because the image below shows that there should be plasic going all the way through the rubber seal itself, with a kind of cap at the top, but in my case, only the rubber part is removable.
Part number: AP3209244
Part number: AP3209244

The rest of the part appears to be inside of the pump housing, but it looks like it's got a rubber seal around it too, which doesn't make sense based on the parts breakdown diagram seen at Motor & pump replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDR252RBB2 Frigidaire/dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com. The parts breakdown only shows one seal part, so is mine broken and/or separated somehow and that's what's causing the water not to fully flow or is it related to the broken motor drive shaft part?

Sorry for the length of this post, but I've been fighting with this thing for quite a while now and it's getting pretty ridiculous. I've just lost my job, so I'm really hoping for a cheaper fix than buying the whole pump and motor assembly if it's not necessary since this is the only way to buy the plastic part that slide over the motor drive shaft.
Gene  
#52 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 3:29:48 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Sounds like the problem is an insufficient amount of water inside the dishwasher or it can be a clogged holes in the spray arm.

The seal you removed, can be damaged now, causing the water leak. It's better to replace it.

Review the files attached to the reply. It might help you to better understand what exactly is wrong with your dishwasher.

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
2002 Mechanical models pump and motor repair.doc (1,370kb) downloaded 11 time(s).
MrFixItAlready!  
#53 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 4:52:47 PM(UTC)
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Actually, the first page you attached shows that the seal is actually two separate pieces that are joined by a sleeve to protect the rubber until installation. I'll have to take a closer look at the rubber in the upper piece and see if it's still stupple and un-cracked, but from what I recall it was in pretty good shape. I've fully disassembled the spray arm already, with the same thought about clogging and I did find a few bits of glass and plastic that shouldn't be in there, but it wasn't enough to clog it by any means. I still took the time to remove all bits though, of course.

According to the second page, the pump should be filling up with water first, but it doesn't appear to be getting nearly enough water into the pump in the first place. It seems as if the seal could be the cause, so I'll order a replacement and install it. If that doesn't fix the issue, you'll be sure to hear from me again! :p

Thanks a million for the attachments, they really do help a ton! I guess my first step should have been to look for the manual for my unit, then RTFM! :D
Gene  
#54 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 6:18:08 PM(UTC)
Gene

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This seal would never affect the pump performance. The worst think could happen is a water leak through the pump under the dishwasher.


Quote:

...the pump should be filling up with water first, but it doesn't appear to be getting nearly enough water into the pump in the first place...


You have to look more careful into this issue. Not enough water - not enough pressure in the system. So might be a problem just a bad water inlet valve?

Gene.
MrFixItAlready!  
#55 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 7:43:16 PM(UTC)
MrFixItAlready!

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That makes sense. So what's the easiest way to test the inlet without getting water everywhere?
mcerasuolo  
#56 Posted : Saturday, October 23, 2010 3:09:35 PM(UTC)
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how do i test the coil? my dryer starts up then turns orange and then the igniter comes on and then the flame starts and runs for about 8 to 10 mins and the flame turns off.



Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Did you remove wires from at least on of terminals on a testing part before running continuity test?

A part could be confirmed as bad or good based on the meter reading and type of the part.

I really recommend reading the above article from "A" to Z" to better understand testing procedures.

Gene.
Gene  
#57 Posted : Saturday, October 23, 2010 3:51:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: MrFixItAlready! Go to Quoted Post
That makes sense. So what's the easiest way to test the inlet without getting water everywhere?


There are no special tests needed. If the house water pressure is good but the dishwasher does not get enough water, just replace the water inlet valve. There is nothing else what can cause it.

- The water inlet valve Part number: AP3851486
Part number: AP3851486



Gene.
Gene  
#58 Posted : Saturday, October 23, 2010 3:54:27 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: mcerasuolo Go to Quoted Post
how do i test the coil? my dryer starts up then turns orange and then the igniter comes on and then the flame starts and runs for about 8 to 10 mins and the flame turns off.


Does the flame start again after a few minutes?

If the igniter glows again, but the flame does not light - just replace the coils.

If the flame goes on and off, it's probably normal.

Gene.
MrFixItAlready!  
#59 Posted : Saturday, October 23, 2010 6:01:32 PM(UTC)
MrFixItAlready!

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
There are no special tests needed. If the house water pressure is good but the dishwasher does not get enough water, just replace the water inlet valve. There is nothing else what can cause it.

- The water inlet valve Part number: AP3851486
Part number: AP3851486

Gene.

The dishwasher's inlet is connected to the kitchen's hot water inlet, which has full, normal pressure, so it must be the valve causing the problem. Awesome, now I have to drum up only about $50 instead of $120!

Thanks Gene, your knowledge and assistance is immesurably helpful. :)

I finally got my tub draining normally just a few hours ago and I figured out what I needed for my dryer's problems last week. Now I only need to find out what's causing my in-wall heater to stop working after about one minute. I started a topic about it at http://forum.appliancepartspros...1-minute.html#post289234, but it doesn't have any responses.
mike twardak  
#60 Posted : Tuesday, November 2, 2010 7:49:28 AM(UTC)
mike twardak

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Originally Posted by: thiendia Go to Quoted Post
Brand: Kirkland (by Whirlpool). Model: SGDS800JQ2.
Problem: The heat lit at the start of circle, remained about 5 minutes and turned off. The burner tried to restart many times after that, but could not lite up?
Lint, haust is clean.
All check with digital tester: set at 200 Ohm, all thermostats, element show 0.05.
Need 3 or more 40 minutes high heat circles to dry a regular load.
What should I do now?
Thank you.

thermo fuse tests 0 ohms
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