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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC) Posts: 19
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Hello,
I was referred to these forums by a APP customer rep. That rep called in response to an email I sent about a possible DOA fan motor. The APP rep is sending out a new part, just in case the 1st one was DOA.
A local repairman diagnosed the condenser fan motor (GE part AP3797248 - Panasonic UDQT24LG3) as the cause of the problems with this GE Profile fridge. The person was paid for the service call; but we opted to find and replace this part ourselves - as it is simple to access, and has only one 4-wire keyed connector.
APP sent out a new motor, and it arrived the next day. I took out the old fan motor, and installed the new one (exact make and model).
The fridge was at room temp. I started the fridge and observed the process of the cool down to the set temps (via the digital displays).
The problem is that the fan was not seen to operate during the cool down. About 1/2 hour into the cool down, I was concerned that the condenser would overheat (was already hot to the touch); so I placed a floor fan behind the unit.
I checked on it regularly for several hours. The cool down reached the set temps, but the condenser/coil fan never turned.
The fridge has been operating at set temps for a week, with the floor fan on constantly.
The serviceman says it must be that the replacement part was DOA.
When the new part arrives I will have all 3 motors. I'll install the newest one, and observe the operation of the fridge.
Is there any other way to test the motors? I have a basic digital multi-meter. I've repaired most of the appliances in my house, and for my family, at least once. I understand that this is not a simple DC motor - that it's controlled by a computer in the fridge. I don't want to do anything that could damage the part or the fridge.
It's important to find out if it's the motor(s), or if there was a misdiagnosis of the problem.
Thanks, BRN..
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Hi Brian, DO NOT install the new motor yet. The problem is that in case if the condenser fan motor or evaporator fan motor would not work properly, that motor has to be replaced together with the main control board on the back of the refrigerator. This is well known problem for many years with such GE refrigerators. - The main control board Part number: AP4436216
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC) Posts: 19
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Thank you Gene,
Follow on questions:
Was the fan motor I installed damaged because it was not installed at the same time as a controller board?
Is it possible that the original fan motor is still in working order - could it be just the controller board that failed?
Can the controller board be tested/repaired?
I will not install the replacement fan motor being sent out, until I am certain as to what needs to be done, and the proper procedures.
Any way to test the original fan motor, or the 1st replacement?
Thanks again,
BRN..
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC) Posts: 19
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Thanks DENMAN, The link you included seems to be for for the evaporator fan motor; the part I replaced is indicated as the condenser fan motor. I realized I put the WRONG GE part number in my original post: "A local repairman diagnosed the fan motor (GE part AP3855880 - Panasonic UDQT24LG3)" though the Panasonic part number is correct (read directly off the part I replaced, and the part ordered). The correct GE Part number is AP3797248. Sorry for the mistake; the two parts look very similar in the photos. [I will try to edit the post] Though I did not see the condenser fan working, cold air does flow through the vents in the panel inside the fridge - so I assume the evaporator fan is working as it should (and at least that function of the control board is too). If you know of another link (for condenser fan check out), please post that. Thanks, BRN.. Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...r-fan.html#ixzz0qTYGYGzV http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Brian,
The test procedure for the DC condenser fan motor is exactly the same as the test procedure for the DC evaporator fan motor, described in the post referred by Denman.
If the original fan motor was shorted (the resistance between the white to the red wire and/or the white to the yellow wire is less than 1K ohm), replace the main control board without any further tests.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC) Posts: 19
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Hi Gene, thanks for the advice. (Doesn't look my reply from this morning made it, sorry if this makes a duplicate)
I followed the resistance test procedures for all 3 of the fan motors (the original that assumed not working, 1st replacement from APP -installed but not functioning, and 2nd replacement sent out by APP -never installed).
All 3 motors passed the test: all 3 had infinite resistance for Yellow, and 1600+ to 1800+ ohms on the Red wires.
Does this mean all 3 motors are Ok? Can I use the original motor with other parts (presumably Main Board)?
Do I need to run tests on J-12 plug of main board, or is it definitely the cause, and should be replaced?
Thanks again,
BRN..
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 5
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Originally Posted by: Brian27 Hello,
I was referred to these forums by a APP customer rep. That rep called in response to an email I sent about a possible DOA fan motor. The APP rep is sending out a new part, just in case the 1st one was DOA.
A local repairman diagnosed the condenser fan motor (GE part AP3797248 - Panasonic UDQT24LG3) as the cause of the problems with this GE Profile fridge. The person was paid for the service call; but we opted to find and replace this part ourselves - as it is simple to access, and has only one 4-wire keyed connector.
APP sent out a new motor, and it arrived the next day. I took out the old fan motor, and installed the new one (exact make and model).
The fridge was at room temp. I started the fridge and observed the process of the cool down to the set temps (via the digital displays).
The problem is that the fan was not seen to operate during the cool down. About 1/2 hour into the cool down, I was concerned that the condenser would overheat (was already hot to the touch); so I placed a floor fan behind the unit.
I checked on it regularly for several hours. The cool down reached the set temps, but the condenser/coil fan never turned.
The fridge has been operating at set temps for a week, with the floor fan on constantly.
The serviceman says it must be that the replacement part was DOA.
When the new part arrives I will have all 3 motors. I'll install the newest one, and observe the operation of the fridge.
Is there any other way to test the motors? I have a basic digital multi-meter. I've repaired most of the appliances in my house, and for my family, at least once. I understand that this is not a simple DC motor - that it's controlled by a computer in the fridge. I don't want to do anything that could damage the part or the fridge.
It's important to find out if it's the motor(s), or if there was a misdiagnosis of the problem.
Thanks, BRN.. i belive its an ac motor u should be able to check power going to it with ur meter when it is spose to be running some times they over heat and r hot to touch when bad or hum wali
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There is a new test by Applianceman in the GE (GSS & PSS) model sticky above, last page, (condenser and evaporator motor test). You probably have a bad motherboard as your defective condensing fan motor burned it out.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC) Posts: 19
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Thanks for the link, (I assume you mean GE Refrigerator Fan Motor Diagnostics ). I actually saw that this morning, and read through it. Didn't see it before I was running the VDC tests I did this weekend. Guess I should run the tests posted by AM. Do you know if all the tests (evaporator, condenser, fresh-food), must be done to find the cause of the problem? Doesn't the resistance test eliminate the tested fans as defective - I want to be able to return at least one of the two condenser fans sent out by APP. If I know the original fan was not the issue, I can return both; else return the one sent out when they figured the 1st replacement might have been DOA. I'd like to return/order new parts ASAP. If I can be sure it's not the fans (via the resistance tests), can I assume it must be the main board? If so, should I hold onto the replacement fans, or is it Ok to install a new board with an old fan? Thanks, BRN..
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