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My GE Profile started having problems keeping the freezer cold enough. The compressor was running constantly, but the freezer was still around 15 degrees. When I pulled the fridge out to check for dust on the condenser coils, I found that the condenser fan was barely turning - maybe 2 revolutions per second. I consulted this forum which helped me diagnose and fix my oven last years and found all these reported problems with the control board. The voltage on pin 5 of connector J2 was 4 VDC which was OK if I had a variable speed compressor, but I didn't know if I did.
I called GE Consumer Relations (800-386-1215) and explained the symptoms and the fact that this forum has reported many problems with the control board. They quickly agreed to send out a service technician at no charge and pay for parts. I would have to pay for the installation.
The guy showed up a few days later, took one look at the fan and said it was the control board. He didn't test anything. He said it would take 10 minutes to replace and cost $180. I told him that was insane and he agreed to credit the $90 service fee they would have normally charged. I thought it was still too much for a 10-minute job. He didn't even have to move the fridge since it was already in the middle of the kitchen where we could keep a fan on the condenser coils. I asked him if he could just leave the board and I would install it. He took 5 minutes to show me his computer screen and the fact that he had no way to record that transaction. I tried to call the woman I spoke to at Consumer Relations, but they were not open. I convinced him to call his manager and figure out a way to work it out. They finally agreed to install the board at no charge.
I wouldn't have minded paying a reasonable service fee or installing the board myself, but clearly they have a problem with this design. A good company will stand behind their products and I felt fully justified in asking them to cover this repair in full.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 19
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Hi,
Your story shows you sometimes can get a major corporation to act responsibly - if you hold their feet to the fire; if you don't accept what they try to make sound like a "a good deal"; and if you have the knowledge and confidence to do it yourself, if they call your bluff. That's a lot of ifs. What about the 99% of people that can't or just don't have the time to go through what you did?
!0 minutes to swap the MCB, for anyone who knows what they're doing probably includes a 5 minute coffee break. Even at 10 minutes for $180, that's over $1000/hour.
Thanks for sharing your story. The technical aspect of diagnosing and solving the hardware issues is only part of a larger story. Glad it worked out well for you. Do let us know how GE responds to any future issues with the fridge.
BRN..
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/24/2011(UTC)
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How can you test a GE Compresser fan motor with a battery? I think I am getting bad motors. Tried two and still no success. I have the correct voltage from the mother Board. Even changed the MB. Everything new and still won't. GE model# PDS22MCRBBB s/n RG046258
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/24/2011(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Brian27  Hello,
I was referred to these forums by a APP customer rep. That rep called in response to an email I sent about a possible DOA fan motor. The APP rep is sending out a new part, just in case the 1st one was DOA.
A local repairman diagnosed the condenser fan motor (GE part AP3797248 - Panasonic UDQT24LG3) as the cause of the problems with this GE Profile fridge. The person was paid for the service call; but we opted to find and replace this part ourselves - as it is simple to access, and has only one 4-wire keyed connector.
APP sent out a new motor, and it arrived the next day. I took out the old fan motor, and installed the new one (exact make and model).
The fridge was at room temp. I started the fridge and observed the process of the cool down to the set temps (via the digital displays).
The problem is that the fan was not seen to operate during the cool down. About 1/2 hour into the cool down, I was concerned that the condenser would overheat (was already hot to the touch); so I placed a floor fan behind the unit.
I checked on it regularly for several hours. The cool down reached the set temps, but the condenser/coil fan never turned.
The fridge has been operating at set temps for a week, with the floor fan on constantly.
The serviceman says it must be that the replacement part was DOA.
When the new part arrives I will have all 3 motors. I'll install the newest one, and observe the operation of the fridge.
Is there any other way to test the motors? I have a basic digital multi-meter. I've repaired most of the appliances in my house, and for my family, at least once. I understand that this is not a simple DC motor - that it's controlled by a computer in the fridge. I don't want to do anything that could damage the part or the fridge.
It's important to find out if it's the motor(s), or if there was a misdiagnosis of the problem.
Thanks,
BRN.. I am having the same problem. I have change the motor two time and one MB. It still won't run. Any Ideas. Thanks, Lyle
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Check your schematic behind the control panel. The parts breakdown shows a 4 wire condensing motor.Some units used a two wire one. With the 4 wire motors, I believe they used a square wave which would measure 1/2 12 volts, or around 6 volts.
This motor has induction coils that will only run on a square wave. The 2 wire motors operate on 12 volts with internal magnets making it a dc motor.
You will need a meter to verify the voltages your motor is getting.
You should check to make sure you have the right motor.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/23/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1
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This post is almost 4 years to the day since the last one was posted but figured I put this out there anyway cause this site helped me fix my frig. Initial prob was that MB relay would click on but compressor and fan wouldn't start and it would try again and again. After testing fan motor and voltages off the MB (both OK) it caught our eye that one of the two filter capacitors on the MB was bulged. I think they're 470 microfarads and maybe 250V. Any case, tested and one was bad. We just happened to have a crapped out wall transformer lying around that happened to have two of these exact same sized caps that were still good. Changed them out, plugged everything back in and, bingo, frig works fine. So might be good to check these caps before going any farther. Apparently the momentary startup load needs these caps to be good. The caps are in parallel with the 12VDC on the MB. From memory I'm pretty sure it's these two. If not, it's the other two to the upper right: 
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/25/2020(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: Brazil
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Is there an app on the phone that can notify repairs when needed? Can I use apk mod app for my device? Edited by user Thursday, October 1, 2020 6:13:01 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Guest
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Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Wiring directions for Panasonic Udqt24lg3 evaporator fan Thanks Steve
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