Here's an update Gene,

I don't have an ohm meter so I cannot test the voltage, I can see if a neighbor has one if need be, just haven't had time yet.

I did leave the power on all night and this morning it was displaying "E1 F2".

I just got home and checked all of the connections and pushed them all to make sure they were in tightly. When I powered it back up, it said "PF 4:15". Obviously the clock is a little off... then it went back to "E1 F2" again.

Another update: I read that the E1 F2 was related to not having the control panel connected, so I put the control panel back on and lo and behold, it seems to be working again. I have a feeling the problem will come back, but I'll let you know if/when that happens.

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it!

1. The very first time having problem was the oven suddenly locking itself while baking, maybe one year ago. No more problems until Last month, when E6 F2 started to appear. At first, simply hitting cancel would clear the problem. Later, the oven would randomly go beep beep beep and/or shut off by itself.

2. I decided to replace the control board. To do so, I had to remove the trim, slide the oven out of the cabinet, and remove two screws on each side as detailed in one of the posts above.

3. After replacing the control board, there was no response after hitting off/cancel and/or the whole display would light up. I determined that the ribbon cable connections were no good. The ribbon cable connections should be coated with what appears to be graphite, but some areas did not appear to have enough coating. My solution was to literally write a thick layer of graphite on the ribbon cable connections using a mechanical pencil (the pencil lead is graphite based).

4. It has been a week. No more random beeping, no more E6 F2. The oven was just being used today. Toward the end of the first baking job, after hitting off/cancel, the oven reset itself. The whole display lit up, the clock reset to 12:00, and then showed locked. The second baking job went through fine (did not try to hit off/cancel toward the end).

The fact that hitting off/cancel would cause the oven to reset indicates that the oven still is not fixed. What can cause this?

What should I replace next? The control panel? The sister board? The transformer? The suppressor? Anything else?

If I end up replacing the control panel, I would also replace the transformer because the transformer is cheap.

Just replace the transformer?

What does the suppressor do?

What does the sister board do?

Hi Gene,

I was reading your reply to Shawn concerning his E6 F2 problem. I have a Whirlpool double oven GBD307PDB10 (black) that is giving me the same code. I tried removing the front and unplugging the ribbon cable but to no avail. When I turned the power back on, the screen was still blank. This originally started on March 19 but less than a day later, the lights came back on and it ran good for almost 2 months. Now it has happened 3 times in the last week. As I read through Shawn's post and your answers, the is mention of control board and control panel. Gene, what is the difference between the control board and the control panel? Thanks Gene for any help. Denise in Minnesota

Hi Gene,
Thanks so much for explaining the difference to me. When I got home today, the code E6 F2 was lit up. I pushed the upper oven off button and the clock appeared. It can be good for a few days or a few weeks but I would hate for it to go out in the middle of something so I am going to work on it now. Thanks again for your help. I really enjoy reading your replies Gene. You give good, easy to understand instructions.

Hi Gene,
I also have a GBD307PDB10 with the E6 F2 error.
I've read all of the posts here and I don't know which problem I have.
A few days back my display went out. After trying to find which breaker it was on to see if I could reset it I went back to check and saw the error. A few minutes later the oven clock turned back on and I tested it; worked fine.

The next day I came downstairs the oven display was off again and no error ever came back up. The oven beeps at me when trying to turn it on.

I found this site/thread when looking up the error codes and followed the following:
1) Checked ohms across red/red and blue/blue - all had resistance
2) Checked for voltage across P16-6 and P16-7 (red/red from transformer) and got 120VAC
3) Checked for voltage across P24-1 and P24-3 (white and black) and got 120VAC
4) Checked ribbon connector. One of the plastic hold down clips broke off but there didn't appear to be any cracks on the ribbon cable. The section that goes in to the squeeze pins are worn so I used an eraser and pencil as another user posted with no luck.

So this is where I am now. I don't know if it's the control board or control panel.
PN AP3595759 is the control board
PN AP3131916 is the control panel

Are those the only parts I need? Should I replace the control panel first (it's cheaper)?
Also the control board has what appears to be a heated up resistor as evident by a blackish halo around D73 & R188 towards the top.

I also, like another poster, don't have a separate breaker for this damn oven and it's a newer house built 5 years ago. I've shut off every single breaker in the box and the light bulb in the oven still stays on! I'm going to call the builder and see what they have to say about this. There's got to be a code in the NEC or something. Looks like I'll have to shut down the entire house main to swap boards.

Not trying to kill myself with 220 volts!
Thanks

BTW,
Hope you had a great Memorial Day