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I've checked continuity on every sensor I can find. Heating element has continuity. Motor runs when direct wired to 115V.
Lint basket in door was clogged.
Could moisture sensor be culprit? Should this moisture sensor show continuity?
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Did you check to see if you have 240VAC at the outlet? Also check the door switch.
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Yes 240 is present at outlet. Door switch(door must be closed switch) has continuity.
Thanks,
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If you have continuity in al the thermostats and the thermal fuse; and the door switch functions properly, I would suspect a bad timer.
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Door switch has continuity. Does moisture switch require continuity? Would the moisture switches failure to have continuity prevent Dryer operation?
Thanks,
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Originally Posted by: armackzum  Door switch has continuity. Does moisture switch require continuity? Would the moisture switches failure to have continuity prevent Dryer operation?
Thanks, The moisture sensor has one wire that goes to chassis ground, and another to the heat control board. They can fail, only if there is a broken or disconnected wire, but their failure would not keep the dryer from working. To test the sensor's continuity, pull it out of the dryer body and disconnect one of the wires. Moisten the bars with a damp washcloth as you check between the two terminals.
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I am going to recheck the continuity on the thermo overheat swiitch on the lint vent. Everthing checks out so I am going to recheck that thermo non resetable switch. I would welcome any recomendations to check anything else that cause a complete "no response" with power at 240 wall outlet.
Thanks,
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The thermal fuse, door switch, the timer, and the start switch are the only components that, when one (or all) fails, will cause a No-start condition as you describe.
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