Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Thanks Gene!
Any tips on how to remove and replace the thing??
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: bbc3  I have a similar problem I have posted clearly about over a week ago. So I will assume I should get my lazy ass up and logic that this is the thread on this deal.. I would just like to point out that it works intermittently. I just pounded the shit out of the uppermost cover plate over the bottom burner and it lit. I am going with solenoid, and hoping not the safety valve.... All sparking good and smell startup gas. Just wont lite sometimes.. 4 clicks and out. Then All shuts off normally. Looks like the cause of your problem is different. I would check the Bake burner as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...e-will-not-stay-lit.html - The oven Bake burner assembly Part number: AP3598752
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: hlr18 Thanks Gene!
Any tips on how to remove and replace the thing?? It's not very difficult. Remove the bottom drawer. Pull the range out of the wall. Disconnect the gas line and unplug the power cord. You'll see what to do next. After you reconnect all gas tubes, check for a possible gas leak at all connections using a soapy water. Good luck. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Got the part today. Before I try to install it, I tested the resistance fresh outta the box:
Top/Bottom: 395-396
Top/Middle: 198
Middle/Bottom: 197-198
Is this right? I was under the impression that it should all be about 216... It shipped to me from **************, which I believe is an authorized Whirlpool Parts Distributor. I called to confirm it was brand new, and the customer service rep said it was.
Thoughts before I attempt to install it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: hlr18
Top/Bottom: 395-396
Top/Middle: 198
Middle/Bottom: 197-198
Sounds good. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Ok. Ill give it a shot this weekend. Thanks Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
In addition to a Whirlpool gas range model #SF362LXST, I have a similar situation that the oven does not heat. I ohmed the valves out. The broiler solenoid ohms out at 197 and the oven is open. Both igniters work. Here's the strange thing: there was advice from one of the Technicians that if one of the solenoids was open, then neither one could work. On my oven the broiler still works, but the oven does not. Do you still think it's the gas/regulator valve that's the problem?
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 9
|
Finally got it done!
After some cursing and sweating trying to get that 15/16 to 1/2 inch connector off, I gave up, and took it to Home Depot for a replacement, where the guy offered to put it on a vice, and it came right off. I tried to get it off while the regulator was still attached to the oven, and it just wouldn't budge--meanwhile it sounded like the chassis was being bent as I was trying to loosen it every which way I could.
Then I tried to get the connector off while the regulator was off of the oven, which obviously provided even less leverage. I guess that sealant they used was super strong...
Putting it back on, I had the toughest time trying to get that cylindrical cover (with a slit for a single small screw) to line up correctly OVER the smaller cylinder--I'm assuming this would be the starter flame, as the cylindrical cover seems just to be a small protective shield--but finally was able to get it over instead of under the smaller cylinder.
Whoever designed this regulator should be shot, as it seems the part fails quite often, based on my research in looking for a solution to my oven problem. On top of that, replacing it could be ALOT simpler. The tiny little space to work with under the oven, and then having to get behind it--huge pain.
Everything works like a charm now.
I hope to never have to replace this part again.
Thanks for all your help Gene!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Thank you for the feed back.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
