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Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
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Gene  
#671 Posted : Monday, November 30, 2009 12:19:08 PM(UTC)
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joelm84  
#672 Posted : Monday, November 30, 2009 7:03:30 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: joelm84 Go to Quoted Post
[FONT=&quot]All,

I read some of the threads here and I find it very helpful thanks for the tips! I think I found the problem. Please review my findings and let me know if I’m on the right path:

Symptoms:
1. The unit kept on running all day/night long.
2. Temperature on the refrigerator side kept on getting warmer and warmer.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. Freezer remained operational.

On thanksgiving, after we got all fat, I placed in a thermometer and found that it was 50F on the refrigerator and about 0F in the freezer. I immediately placed all leftovers in our basement Fridge and left it operating to see if there was any change in temperature. Next day the fridge side was still at 50F.

I goggled my symptoms and I found this and the service manual that was posted by someone on these forums:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16010154.pdf[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Upon figuring out was everything was, and I had all the tools available, I went ahead and took off the back panel on the freezer side. When I opened it up I found the following snowy picture.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Picture #1 Icy Evaporator[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Picasa Web Albums - Joel - Maytag Refrig...[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Also, I spotted some more ice on the top , so I removed that panel as well[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Picture #2 Icy Air Tunnel[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Picasa Web Albums - Joel - Maytag Refrig...[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Yes that’s ice on the top right, not the plastic cover [/FONT]J[FONT=&quot]. No wonder why cold air was not getting to the fridge side.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I went for the easy stuff first and removed the defroster assembly and placed it on my desk. I checked the OHMS on the heating element. It hovers around 23.8-24OHMS which is normal according to several threads on this site. Then I checked the defroster thermostat. According to the service manual in section “AIR FLOW - FORCED AIR SYSTEMS” (Section 2-15-16 or page 44) section 5 and 6 state that the thermostat can be checked if the temperature is higher than 15F. Since I took the assembly out and it was in room temperature, I was able to read a resistance of 244K OHMS.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]To add to this as well, i found the return vent full of ice as well.
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Conclusion:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The defroster system did not come on due to the resistance of the thermostat at 244K in room temperature. It should read (infinity). Therefore never turning on and eventually causing the air tunnels to freeze. Since this unit has dual thermostats, the refrigerator side was never cold on enough for the compressor to turn off. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Replacement part to be ordered:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]AP4069790 - Defrost assy Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Defrost assy, part number: AP4069790[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What do you guys think?[/FONT]


Ok i did further testing and found that the heating element and thermostat were ok. Upon placing these parts back in the fridge, i found that the heating element had melted the plastic and maybe some styrofoam on the side of the fridge. Not wanting a fire in the future, i'm going to replace this refrigerator. Thanks for the tips.
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gary72  
#673 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 8:21:57 AM(UTC)
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A lot of this sounds all too familiar. The compressor runs continuously, the freezing compartment gets very cold, the evaporator coils get filled with ice, and the main compartment warms up.

From what I can find, this model puts all of the logic on a single control board, but I have no idea how to access it. Are there any service manuals for this refrigerator posted somewhere?
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Gene  
#674 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 3:51:39 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Gary,

There are two parts involved in the defrost process: defrost heater and defrost thermostat. It controls by the electronic control board (#5 on the diagram).

Here is the Service manual.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG MBF2556KEW Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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jeffrey_benjamin  
#675 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 4:09:15 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
There are two parts involved in the defrost process: defrost heater and defrost thermostat. It controls by the electronic control board (#5 on the diagram).

Here is the Service manual.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG MBF2556KEW Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

hi have anyone tried to hardwire these refrigerators that is causing much so much problems and in the end it is costly. :cool:
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Dennis Fricke  
#676 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 6:20:15 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the help. I replaced the capacitor and overload relay with a 3 in 1 module from a local appliance repair store. My goal was to determine if the compressor also was bad. I had to act fast with all of my stuff thawing out. Everything seems to be working now. I am grateful to have your troubleshooting knowledge.
Dennis
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gary72  
#677 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 6:23:38 PM(UTC)
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Awesome Gene,

My new control board should come tomorrow. I pulled the current one out, and hit the relays sharply with the handle of a small screwdriver, and when I plugged the power cord back in, the refrigerator acted more normally. However, I know that once a relay fuses like that, its basically history.

I suppose I might consider replacing the relay on the original board with one of a higher current rating and mount it off-board. There is probably room in there to do that.

Thanks again,

Gary
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WildnMN  
#678 Posted : Sunday, December 6, 2009 8:25:17 PM(UTC)
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I have a GTS22WCMARWW where the evaporator fan started to make a load whirling noise. Sounded like a baring going out or the blade was rubbing against something. The fan would cycle on or off. At some point the fan stopped making the noise. About three months later the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm. I noticed the evaporator fan was no longer working. I concluded that the evaporator fan motor burned out.

I replaced the evaporator fan motor, and the refriderator is again cold, but the fan is now constantly running. I am guessing the main control board needs to be replaced. I'm looking to see if there are other possibilities before making the purchase.

Thanks
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Gene  
#679 Posted : Monday, December 7, 2009 1:06:52 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Quote:
...I replaced the evaporator fan motor, and the refriderator is again cold, but the fan is now constantly running...


Remove the rear panel in the freezer, check how the evaporator covered with snow and post the result.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GTS22WCMARWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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WildnMN  
#680 Posted : Tuesday, December 8, 2009 3:56:14 PM(UTC)
WildnMN

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Remove the rear panel in the freezer, check how the evaporator covered with snow and post the result.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GTS22WCMARWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

The evaporator was not covered in snow before I replaced the evaporator motor. I will check to see if this still the case now.

Thanks
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