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Gene  
#651 Posted : Wednesday, October 28, 2009 3:41:05 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Grumps,

If the defrost thermostat checks OK then there is no reason to replace it while it is a good idea to replace the evaporator thermistor aka a sensor.

- The evaporator thermistor Part number: AP3185407
Part number: AP3185407



Gene.
Grumps  
#652 Posted : Wednesday, October 28, 2009 7:12:48 PM(UTC)
Grumps

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Gene, thanks for the help on the motherboard and the thermistor.
Thanks again it's greatly appreciated!!
Grumps
jwsbillie  
#653 Posted : Thursday, October 29, 2009 3:38:31 AM(UTC)
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Gene,
Thanks for your help. I will replace the motherboard and both thermistors.
Bill
SweetSwede  
#654 Posted : Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:09:49 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
bohemian,

There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.

If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.

If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.

If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.

- The part number for the main control board is AP3950129

- The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317

- The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407

Gene.


Hi Gene,

My refrigerator is the GE GSS25LGPACC. Evaporator coils are completely frosted. I have replaced the defrost heater and defrost thermostat--no change. Is the procedure you outline above the correct way to test my motherboard? If it is bad you say both thermisters have to be replaced. One of mine is hard wired into the evaporator fan--do I need to replace the fan also or just splice in a new thermistor? Fan appears to be running ok.
Gene  
#655 Posted : Thursday, October 29, 2009 1:47:35 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
dstankus  
#656 Posted : Tuesday, November 3, 2009 9:17:09 AM(UTC)
dstankus

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First off, thanks very much for your time and effort in responding to everyone!

My situation:

Kenmore 25359683991 side-by-side. Monday morning I noticed that the Fridge side was noticeably warm. Not hot, but too warm for a fridge; I'd guesstimate 60-65 degrees. Freezer is fine; ice dry and hard, no softness in any of the frozen stuff.

After some research, I checked the damper on the fridge side and it's open. Also checked the defrost cycle on the freezer by manually turning the defrost timer, and that seems to be working as well; there's no frost on the inside of the freezer, and after the defrost cycle has run, there are little droplets of water visible on the back of the freezer compartment.

When I had the damper removed on the fridge side the fan was still running on the freezer side, but there was no air blowing out of the opening on the fridge side (the opening that the damper was covering.

I'm thinking that somewhere in the airflow on the freezer there's something that's blocking or otherwise not allowing the air to be blown from freezer to fridge.

I've looked at the exploded diagram for my model;

Full Diagram | SearsPartsDirect.com

and can't see what to check next.

Appreciate any hints/guidance before I start taking things apart all willy-nilly!


Thanks,
Dave
JKulp42757  
#657 Posted : Tuesday, November 3, 2009 11:04:53 AM(UTC)
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I have a GE PROFILE PSC23SGRDSS

Two days ago I went to open the fridge, and the display was reading 100 degrees! And I'm sure it was, as I had cans of biscuits that exploded, curdled milk, and sticks of butter that completely melted.

The freezer was reading 6 degrees (usually reads 0), so I was a little worried about it to, but figured it was a little warmer because the fridge was so hot.

All I did was set the fridge to cool to 37 degrees and closed it up. I didn't want to unplug it and risk losing the freezer stuff too. Over the next several hours the fridge slowly cooled back down to 37 degrees, and that's where it's been.

My guess is maybe the defrost thermostat needs replaced...but I'm not sure what the first step should be.

Thanks
Gene  
#658 Posted : Tuesday, November 3, 2009 9:57:48 PM(UTC)
Gene

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It is hard to say at this time what can cause it. One of possibilities is if the lights inside the refrigerator did stay "on" all the time. Watch it close and keep in touch.

Gene.
JKulp42757  
#659 Posted : Thursday, November 5, 2009 4:32:00 AM(UTC)
JKulp42757

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Thanks Gene.

Well, so far, so good. It's still working as it should.
dstankus  
#660 Posted : Monday, November 9, 2009 9:38:53 AM(UTC)
dstankus

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Bumping up my earlier post in case anyone has any suggestions....



My situation:

Kenmore 25359683991 side-by-side. Monday morning I noticed that the Fridge side was noticeably warm. Not hot, but too warm for a fridge; I'd guesstimate 60-65 degrees. Freezer is fine; ice dry and hard, no softness in any of the frozen stuff.

After some research, I checked the damper on the fridge side and it's open. Also checked the defrost cycle on the freezer by manually turning the defrost timer, and that seems to be working as well; there's no frost on the inside of the freezer, and after the defrost cycle has run, there are little droplets of water visible on the back of the freezer compartment.

When I had the damper removed on the fridge side the fan was still running on the freezer side, but there was no air blowing out of the opening on the fridge side (the opening that the damper was covering.

I'm thinking that somewhere in the airflow on the freezer there's something that's blocking or otherwise not allowing the air to be blown from freezer to fridge.

I've looked at the exploded diagram for my model;

Full Diagram | SearsPartsDirect.com

and can't see what to check next.
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