Mike,

You have to remove the rear panel in the freezer (#2 on the diagram) in order to access the evaporator, defrost heater and defrost thermostat.

If the evaporator is blocked with snow and ice then most likely there is a faulty defrost parts - the heater or thermostat. You have to check them for continuity.

The evaporator fan should be "on" as long as the compressor is. It controls by the temperature control.

- The defrost heater Part number: AP4070731

No, Model # MCBR1000W
SERIAL # 041201297
PART # 319NFBYY-53 HOR 4K
THAT ALL.

What part is it? What is the part name?

What is wrong with the refrigerator?

Gene.

Freezer set to 0 degrees, display reads 0, digital thermometer placed in freezer with external monitor reads 0. Freezer set to -5, display reads -5, digital thermometer reads -5. If fridge set 35, display reads 35, digital thermometer reads 47. Set at 38, display shows 38, digital thermometer reads 49. Food going bad at those temps. At max cool setting still can't get below 45.

When it worked fine, the bottom vegetable drawer used to freeze lettuce occassionally. Hasn't done that is a long time. Having milk in door sour way too soon so I'm not imaging a problem.

Compressor and condenser run fine, no dust on condenser coils.

I have had two repair folks out and, so far, I've replaced the following parts: main circuit board, inverter box, refrigerator thermistor, air baffle/diffuser. Still same problem. Removed evaporator cover. Looks fine, no uneven ice problem, not blocked with ice at all, just the fine layer you would expect with a properly working evaporator. Evaporator fan working fine. You can feel air flowing into fridge through diffuser.

Repair manual says the display won't show temperature differences between set and actual temps if the difference is less than 6 degrees (to account for temp changes caused by door opening/closing). But there's a difference of more than 10 degrees which isn't being reflected in the display.

Does the display board control how the evaporator fan and diffuser run or is that done by the main board which was already replaced? Why doesn't the display board show a 10-12 degree temperature difference between set and actual? When unplugged and plugged back in after a 1/2 hour, it did reflect a 20-25 degree difference, but I didn't watch to see at what point it went to display temp. Which logic board is responsible for the monitoring of set vs actual? Main circuit board or display circuit board? If the display circuit board, does the display board then send signal to main board to turn on compressor, evaporator, evaporator fan, diffuser, etc.? Just trying to figure out whether to spend another $150 to replace display board.

Any ideas on what to try now?

Hi. Need some help troubleshooting. I have a side-by-side Maytag M/N RSD2200EAE (no ice maker). Basicly, freezer and refrigerator compartments are too warm. Problems originally started when air flow stopped. Found an iceblock in the coils, caused by a burnt out defrosting element. Replaced that and the defrost thermostat. Checked all other parts for correct continuity and function. All seemed fine for a week or two, but now the temperature in the refrigerator now hovers between 44 and 50F. Freezer by the fan is 1F, with the front around 12F. Icecream does not freeze solid (closer to soft serve)

While in the middle of the freezing cycle, I looked at the coils. Only about 1/5 of the coils at the bottom had any frost, where the refrigerant line connects to the coils. There was one tennis ball size of ice at the top, where the refrigerant feedline line passes the top of the coils on its way down to the bottom.

I'm at a lose on how to proceed (short of getting another fridge). It did have a refrigerant leak when we first got the fridge about 11 years ago. But it was fine until a few months ago. Could it be a refrigerant leak? Or something else?