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Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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On 09-30-2007 Sailin wrote: > Oven Codes - Thank you for the oven codes. I do not see F7-E0 under Kitchenaid.....do you have additional information?? Thank you in advance! Then on 10-04-2007 Admin / APP Team responded: > This file explains F7-E0 code in detail. (A link to: https://secured.whirlpoo...6c15a8/$FILE/4317302.PDF ) Thank you, that was very helpful! My KitchenAid KESC307-HBS6 electric range (about 6 years old) suddenly showed up with an F7:E0 error code – Invalid latch switch reading – Check latch switch. And, adding to the fun, repeated testing showed the problem to be intermittent. I would have never thought that the red plastic part would absorb enough moisture to become conductive and cause a false signal. In my circa 2003 electric stove the Latch Switch assembly was located in the top/center-rear part of the stove (after disconnecting the power cord and removing rear cover). The red plastic (connector holder) part slid out to the right, to unplug from the Latch Switch’s (two) terminals. Fortunately this red thing provided an easy cut-point, to separate the two connectors (being shorted out, according to the above link). For this I held the red plastic part in one hand and labored with a fine-tooth hacksaw. Next I filled down the cut area and wrapped the resulting two red parts with electrical tape and plugged them back in – hoping this is the end of the F7-E0 gremlin. [FONT="]PS- AppliancePartsPros has been of fabulous problem-solving help to me and my comments above are in the spirit of making a contribution – Thanks Guys![/FONT]
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Very instructive information. Good luck with your range.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Hey Gene,
Again, thanks for your help.
Per the instructions your provided, I was able to verify the wire harness was fine. I volt metered out the 1 and 2 pins on the ESEC board and it was not operating between 4 and 12 volts. I replaced the board yesterday and that has resolved both the F5 and F20 error.
Thank you again!! You saved me a ton in having it repaired.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I'm glad to hear it. Good luck with your range.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/23/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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I attempted to use my broiler and oven in the last two days. Kept gettin "F5" error message. I tried this morning and the oven appeared to be preheating. What's the deal?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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If this error code will return I would replace the control board (aka a clock). - The clock Part number: AP2022868
Gene.
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Joined: 7/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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I did not have an error code on my GE JTP11WP oven but the cold temperature registered 150 and the hot temps were off similarly. Replacing the temp probe, I got error code 3. Reversing the leads made the code disappear but the cold temp is now 280. The sales/tech persons confirmed I had the correct sensor. Where should I look now. Thanks David
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/23/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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Originally Posted by: Gene If this error code will return I would replace the control board (aka a clock). - The clock Part number: AP2022868
Gene. Thanks for your response. I called for a replacement clock. The price is $ 280.00. I think I'll just replace the unit for that price. Thanks again. angie
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/27/2009(UTC) Posts: 1
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whirlpool model# rbs305pdq12 getting an error code e1-f1
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