I have a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator (Model #ED25GWXXN00). The problem started with the refrigerator not cooling properly and then the freezer doing the same. We have done the following so far:
1) Cleaned the condenser coils (they were filled with dust)
2) Checked for ice on the evaporator coils. There was some, so I turned the unit off to let it melt. Recent checks show only light level of frost forms but no ice.
3) Verified both the evap fan and the condenser fan were running.
4) Advanced the defrost motor until the compressor turned off. It properly turned back on at the appropriate time (~30 min).
4) Also, did a continuity check of the defrost motor (continuity changed between pins as it advanced through the two stages)
5) Continuity checked the defrost thermostat (closed at cold, open at higher temp)
6) Continuity checked defrost heater. (~20 ohm)
7) Verified the door switch and light switch.
8) Operational and continuity check the refrigerator control (continuity check indicated 0/infinity did not have the long gradual change like a typical rheostat)
9) Verified the baffle mechanically changes as the freezer control is adjusted (changes flow into refrigerator section).
10) Verified no blockage in flow paths between sections

Currently I have the refrigerator running and the freezer appears to be running well (froze a cup of water…I do not have a temp gauge). The refrigerator control is set to 3 (middle) and the Freezer control is set to A - Warmer (permit max flow to refrigerator). The evaporator coils are lightly frosted….no ice. Defroster appears to be working properly. Both fans are running. The compressor is running and very warm to the touch.

However, the refrigerator is not getting cold…only slightly cool. The air flow into the refrigerator appears to be slow. I think that I need more flow to get it to cool down properly. The refrigerator has been running for nearly a day. I have just adjusted the controls to 4 – A to see if it will get the refrigerator to cold.

Any other ideas? Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Dan

I think you may have discovered the possible problem. After removing the fan the continuity measurement read 47 ohms. Is this enough resistance to slow the fan down?

The frost is in general covers all of the coils. Maybe heavier on the upper coils.

I will also lower the refrigerator temp setting. But it sounds like I will likely be buying a new fan.

Thanks,
Dan

Gene,

I appreciate the knowledge you have shared on this topic, and it has been useful to me. However, I'm still experiencing the same problem. I have a GE side-by-side model GSH25JSTA SS. Several months ago, I noticed that the fridge side was 50 degrees + even though the freezer was working properly. After finding your message, I determined that the coils were frozen so I thawed them and hope for the best. To make a long story short, based on continuity tests it seemed as if the motherboard was not working correctly, so I replaced it with a new one from my local GE parts supply. To my surprise, the problem returned within 2 weeks. So, even though I thought they tested okay, I replaced the thermostate and heating element about 10 days ago. Well, today my fridge was 50 degrees + again and the coils in the freezer where heavily frosted over.

The only thing that I noticed this time is a loose grounding wire at the bottom of the freezer. I was aware of one located at the top of the freezer that connects to the dividing panel, but this is the first time I saw the one at the bottom. I connected it, but I don't know if it will make a difference or not.

Given the above, do you have any insight as to what my problem might be now? If I have a second faulty MB, how do I specifically test it to prove that it is faulty so that I can exchange it (I tried to follow your directions as posted, but I may be a little unclear as to exactly which leads I should be testing)?

They were cheap enough so I picked up 2 at lunch today from my local parts supplier. What is the best/easiest way to monitor proper operation apart from waiting until everything freezes over? Should I just visually check manually, or is there any way to force a defrost cycle to observe the system in action?