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Gene  
#11 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 2:37:25 PM(UTC)
Gene

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If you can not access it this way, then the only choice is to remove the inner door panel.

Gene.
cybolt  
#12 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 2:44:54 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
If you can not access it this way, then the only choice is to remove the inner door panel.

Gene.

Is that the entire top to bottom panel with the shelves and all, held in place by all those hex screws hiding under the "gasket" or "pad" around the door?

Is that like rebuilding an engine? Do you run the risk of not getting it back together again properly if you do so?

Is there a high screw up factor involved?

Is there a way to come in from the front?
Gene  
#13 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 3:08:32 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: cybolt Go to Quoted Post
Is that the entire top to bottom panel with the shelves and all, held in place by all those hex screws hiding under the "gasket" or "pad" around the door?

Is that like rebuilding an engine? Do you run the risk of not getting it back together again properly if you do so?

Is there a high screw up factor involved?

Is there a way to come in from the front?



Yes, it is the whole panel (#19 on the diagram).

It is not a simple job, but there is no any other way.

Gene.
cybolt  
#14 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 3:14:33 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Yes, it is the whole panel (#19 on the diagram).

It is not a simple job, but there is no any other way.

Gene.


So seriously... is there a high screw up factor? Does one risk not getting it back together OK or is it simply removing all the screws, replacing the tube and putting it back together?

I'm OK in these situations... not a mechanic but can figure stuff out OK.

BTW, lovely day in SoCal, isnt it? I'm out in Upland, at the foot of Mt Baldy.
Gene  
#15 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 3:41:26 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: cybolt Go to Quoted Post
So seriously... is there a high screw up factor? Does one risk not getting it back together OK or is it simply removing all the screws, replacing the tube and putting it back together?

I'm OK in these situations... not a mechanic but can figure stuff out OK.

BTW, lovely day in SoCal, isnt it? I'm out in Upland, at the foot of Mt Baldy.


It is very nice, especially in Orange county.

You have to remove the door from the fridge and put it on a flat surface to prevent it from twisting when you'll assemble it back. This is the most risky part of the job. Otherwise it's not going to be very difficult.

Gene.
cybolt  
#16 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 3:48:53 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
It is very nice, especially in Orange county.

You have to remove the door from the fridge and put it on a flat surface to prevent it from twisting when you'll assemble it back. This is the most risky part of the job. Otherwise it's not going to be very difficult.

Gene.

Many thanks!

Have a great weekend!
Gene  
#17 Posted : Friday, July 30, 2010 3:58:58 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome. Don't work too hard!:)

Gene.
fuzzface  
#18 Posted : Wednesday, December 8, 2010 6:27:19 PM(UTC)
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I've got the same problem with a Whirlpool ED25CQXHW03. How do I replace the water line inside the freezer door to the dispenser?
Erikda1  
#19 Posted : Sunday, March 20, 2011 8:06:43 AM(UTC)
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DID ANYBODY EVER FIGURE OUT HOW TO SNAKE THE NEW TUBE BACK THROUGH THE DOOR OF THE FRIDGE?
Erikda1

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Try to remove the recess panel (#22 on the diagram).

- The water line assembly Part number: AP2643670
Gene  
#20 Posted : Monday, March 21, 2011 6:45:47 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Erikda1 Go to Quoted Post
DID ANYBODY EVER FIGURE OUT HOW TO SNAKE THE NEW TUBE BACK THROUGH THE DOOR OF THE FRIDGE?
Erikda1


What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Gene.
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