This service manual will show you how to check voltage to the speed control board. It is not a perfect test, but it will increase the probability that replacing the board will fix your problem.

It is not likely the vibration would have harmed your board, but boards do not like heat, moisture or movement, all of which is present in a washer so it is possible that did cause your problem.

I am still concerned about your movement, so use the service manual to recheck everything before you put money into a board.

http://frigidaireservicetips.co..._TumbleActionWashers.pdf

Well, that is unexpected.

Does your model have a speed switch selector? If not, that is probably the explanation as the service manual is set up for models with a speed switch selector, and without one your speed control board may be designed differently.

What you are trying to do is to see if you have 120v coming from the Pull On switch through the door switch to the Speed Control Board and then over to the motor. The Schematic in the manual does not have wire colors, but see if the Tech Notes that should be inside the lower front service panel do have a good wiring diagram. They may even give you the correct tests for your board and motor.

If the tech notes do not help, trace out the wiring so that you can get the wire that is carrying the L1 current to the Speed Control board, and then check the voltage on it where it comes in to the 4 pin connector to the 9 pin connector where it goes out to the motor. I suspect the white wire coming in to the 4 pin connector is the correct one, the others should be coming from the light indicators. I would like to think that the 9 pin connector is the same as the 10 pin.

The test is that if you have 120v going to the Speed Control board when the machine is supposed to spin (make sure the door is closed) and the machine does not spin the Speed Control board is likely the problem.

Hope this helps.

Hmm... Attachment didnt work. Trying again.

Well, I ended up having some time last night and did some more checking... I couldnt get much out of the 'Motor Movement" section of this Tech Sheet:

http://www.applianceaid.com/pic...rontloadermotorstuff.jpg

My motor DOES tumble, and the directions arent clear (step 3) as to using the disconnected CABLE to do the tests or using the socket on the board? My results :

Step 4 - I got 23V which makes no sense. I was also getting AC voltage readings on my meter when only 1 lead was connected and the other lead in the air. How is that possible?

Step 5 - 120V
Step 6 - 2.4 ohms

I double checked the motor windings and everything was perfect :

Stator full C8.2 - C8.3 ==> 0.9 ohms
Armature C8.5 - C8.5 ==> 1.3 ohms
TachoGen C8.6 - C8.7 ==> 14.6 ohms
Motor Thermal C2.1 - C2.2 ==> 0.1 ohm
Stator tapped C8.1 - C8.3 ==> 0.3 ohm

I assume this points to a good motor, although with one question : Would the Motor Thermal Protector be either 100% working or 100% bad? Meaning that since my motor tumbles (and has good ohmage (izzat a word?)) that the MTP cannot be the cause of my No-Fast-Spin problem? This is critical because when it tries to fast-spin it starts and then I hear a click on the speed control board that shuts the motor down, and I'm wondering if something is telling the board to shut the motor down, or the board is just bad and shutting it down on its own?

I ran a full 'short wash' cycle (no clothes), and confirmed that there is no S1+S1, S1, S2 or S3 spin. The motor only turns on/off in short bursts for the tumble action. I'd like to run some kind of test just to see the motor run fast for a while. Do you know of a way to 'jump' the motor like that? Heck I'd even put in a fast-spin button that I have to press by hand as this diagnosing is getting tiresome!

Thanks again for your help, and Happy Holidays to you...

CNR

PS - Oh, one good thing that I did is disconnect that OBNOXIOUS end-of-cycle buzzer! That thing is LOUD and scares the cat and my kids! Considering the final spin sounds like an airplane taking off from 3 houses away, its pretty obvious that the wash is done when the plane 'lands', so the buzzer is pretty much redundant and useless.

fdsafdsafdsafdsfdsafdafdsHi all,

OK, does anyone have a sledge hammer I can borrow?? :mad:

Well the holidays got in the way of my repair, so I ordered a Speed Control board on 12/28. After hearing "its backordered", "its on this truck and we'll send it Monday", "it wasnt on that truck, we dont know when its coming in", I FINALLY got the board yesterday. And, of course, I put it in and I STILL HAVE NO FAST SPIN!

With the laundry piling up I still need some help. Does anyone know what wires I can connect directly to my motor to see it if CAN do a fast spin? I need to prove that the $^$(%&$*() motor actually can do it before trying something else. During the cycle it seems like it TRIES to start the fast spin - it comes on and winds up in speed, and then it shuts down.

If the motor CAN spin fast, then what else could it be? The timer board? I mentioned before my disabling of the wax motor :

- Bent the wax (auxiliary) contacts inside lock assembly to 'fool' the machine into thinking the wax motor works

Does that seem like it should work?

Any other ideas or help would be appreciated.
Thanks,

CNR