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The dishwasher door switch was sticking, and we fixed it. The clean light would not come on at the end. The system would run but occasionally lock up, and we would turn the circuit breaker on and off to reset it. It would also beep and light up for no reason throughout the day It finally did nothing. I replaced the main board, and it started working again, but the clean light would never come at the end. The dishwasher would also beep and light up randomly. I then replaced the door latch. That didn't fix the issue. How do I get the clean light to come on at the end of the cycle and the dishwasher to stop randomly beeping and lighting up like it does when you close the door for no reason? update - It stopped working all together - I tried the breaker 0n/off nothing. Anything to reset otherwise, it seems it's time to replace. Edited by user Sunday, March 24, 2024 4:35:28 PM(UTC)
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Based on the information provided, the failure is in the user interface control WD21X31899. It is likely that there is a short in the board that is causing the erratic behavior as well as the clean LED not illuminating.
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Originally Posted by: WilliamM/APP Team  Based on the information provided, the failure is in the user interface control WD21X31899. It is likely that there is a short in the board that is causing the erratic behavior as well as the clean LED not illuminating. Since it's completely dead now, does that also mean the main board is shot again?
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It may be possible. If the bottom cover for the machine control is set down, is there a blinking or solid LED illumination?
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I am recently having a similar issue with my GE 640HSM2SS dishwasher. I as well have replaced the main board but not the door switch or user interface. The door switch seemed to work fine when the dishwasher was working after resetting the breaker. When I replaced the main board after it had completely failed I noticed that there was a burned spot on it. I would hate to just throw parts at it, and would hate to fry the new board that I just installed. Is there a way to test that the user interface is faulty? Or do I just have to buy the user interface and hope for the best?
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Mario760, if there is a burned spot on a control, it would need to be replaced. As far as testing the user interface control, unfortunately, there is not a way shown in the technical information to test it without plugging the controls in and testing for voltage.
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