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Frig not cool, freezer OK
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Model: KTRS20MAWH10 Brand: Whirlpool Age: More than 10 years
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seandil  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 14, 2015 7:57:35 AM(UTC)
seandil

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Hello,
After looking into this, I am led to believe I have a defrost issue. There is:confused: NO airflow into the fridge, and the fan inside the freezer sounds like its working harder than normal. Ice, looking like snow, has been building up on the panel at the back of the freezer as well. Videos I have seen mention replacing the defrost timer located in the top of the refrigerator on my model? It was also suggested to check the heater coil and defrost bimetal thermostat, both located behind the panel at the back of the freezer. Furthermore it was suggested that replacing the evaporator fan located behind the same panel in the freezer would fix the problem to?
Now there is a place on the refrigerator control panel to stick a screw driver and manually turn the defrost timer switch, activating the freezer defrost system manually. If I do this and the refrigerator defrosts allowing the refrigerator to cool, then wouldn't I know my problem was a bad defrost timer. Next, I would just replace it?
I found a U tube video that removed the panel at the back of the freezer first, and then manually started the defrost cycle using the screwdriver I mentioned earlier. He said after 10 minutes if the heater coil came on that the defrost timer was the problem for sure. If not, then you had to check the heater coil, and finally the defrost thermostat? He never mentioned the evaporator fan which is mentioned in repair guides on this website.
What I need is a pro's advice on how to proceed and what parts to replace. Please let me know what parts are commonly replaced when this problem occurs, and is my check order correct? an Ohm meter was used to check the defrost heater coil, and thermostat. What should they read? The only way the fan was checked was to spin it to see if it turned?
As you see, I'm confused. Help and thanks.

Sincerely,
Mark
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, December 14, 2015 1:56:54 PM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for KitchenAid KTRS20MAWH10 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Now there is a place on the refrigerator control panel to stick a screw driver and manually turn the defrost timer switch, activating the freezer defrost system manually. If I do this and the refrigerator defrosts allowing the refrigerator to cool, then wouldn't I know my problem was a bad defrost timer.[/COLOR]
I am assuming that"then wouldn't I know my problem was a bad defrost"is just a typo.
Because you would know that the timer was bad.

[COLOR="Blue"]Next, I would just replace it?[/COLOR]
Yes

[COLOR="Blue"]He never mentioned the evaporator fan which is mentioned in repair guides on this website.[/COLOR]
If the fan is running OK then it is not the problem.
Sometimes the frost can build up to the point that it interferes with the fan but defrosting the unit usually fixes this.

Below is my standard blurb on troubleshooting defrost problems.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem.
Do not let them de-ice.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 4 in Section 03) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 33 in Section 05) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 35 in Section 05) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
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seandil  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 14, 2015 4:48:56 PM(UTC)
seandil

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Thanks for the detailed reply. A couple repair vids I found on utube said different things and confused me where the defrost timer is concerned. Here's what I have done so far. I manually turned the defrost timer cam until the unit shutoff and entered defrost mode. I did not remove the back panel, but did leave the freezer door open and listened for the heater unit to come on for 20 minutes at least. I never heard anything. I shut the freezer door and noticed that the unit came back on after 35 minutes or so. This tells me that the defrost timer is cycling or the unit would have stayed off. When the unit came back on, I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan running hard, but when I placed my hand near the back to check airflow, there was very little. When I opened the refrigerator door to check the air flow while the unit was running, there was NO airflow what so ever. Next I will post what I find once I take the back cover off of the freezer. Since there is very little airflow coming from the freezer, none from the refrigerator, and a loud evaporator fan motor; should I now suspect a bad evaporator fan motor and replace that? The freezer is cooling fine, but the refrigerator is warm is the problem. Let me know and thanks. I'm trying to figure out what I could order and replace so I don't have to keep taking things apart.
My parents are elderly people and may have left the refrigerator door open all night some evening. Other vids I have seen suggest this could cause ice to clog the airflow between the refrigerator and freezer. I'll test everything suggested, but I am wondering if my unit simply needs to be emptied and turned off overnight with the freezer door open and back panel inside the freezer removed so that it can all just thaw out real well? If the airflow vents are clogged with ice, I'll do a manual defrost of the unit and see if that fixes it before I order any parts. How does this sound?

Appreciate it,
Mark
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denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, December 16, 2015 1:47:05 AM(UTC)
denman

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I would find out if it is or is not a defrost problem first.
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seandil  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 28, 2015 6:45:34 AM(UTC)
seandil

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Thank you sir for your reply.
I just saw it and did not get an email letting me know about it. I hope you had a good Christmas.
I just opened the refrigerator door and its getting warm in there again. I defrosted the fridge and it worked fine again for about a two weeks, now its almost back to where it was temperature wise when I was having problems. The fan that cools the fridge felt like to me it was blowing slow after the defrost. It did quit making noise after the defrost; however. The fridge got cold inside as well?
I have watched several vids on what to do next, but I only want to take it all apart once. I am speaking of the disassembly of the freezer panel in the back of the open freezer. I'll have to take all the food out and remove the ice maker and door light in order to check the evaporator fan, heater coil, and thermostat. The other switch, the defrost timer, is in the refrigerator as you know.
My question for a professional like yourself is generally what part fails in my case, and what should I replace to be safe? From the vids, it would appear that replacing the defrost timer switch located in the refrigerator, and the thermostat in the freezer would be the right thing to do. One vid showed me how to test the heater coil and said it rarely fails. Another spun the evaporator fan around, and if there was resistance or it quit spinning quickly, they replaced it. I'd rather replace something now that works, rather than have to go back in later.

Please let me know,
Mark
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denman  
#6 Posted : Monday, December 28, 2015 10:25:05 AM(UTC)
denman

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I am out at the cottage trying to do this on a tablet with a so-so intrnet connection.

If you only want to open it up once then replace the heater, the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.

I cannot comment on the fan butifyou donot trust it, replace it asit willjustcause problems in the future.
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seandil  
#7 Posted : Monday, December 28, 2015 1:56:25 PM(UTC)
seandil

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Sorry to bother you on your vacation, sir.

I will order the parts you suggested. Thanks again for the advice and prompt response.

Happy New Year,

Mark
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denman  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, December 29, 2015 2:42:15 AM(UTC)
denman

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Not a bother.

Good luck with the repair and Happy New Year to you too.
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seandil  
#9 Posted : Thursday, October 19, 2017 9:11:06 PM(UTC)
seandil

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I replaced the defroster timer in the fridge, evaporator fan, and thermostat in the freezer. The thermostat appeared damaged. Got it for $10 off the internet. Anyway, one of the three replacements fixed the problem. Both the freezer and fridge are running like a freight train. Thanks.:)
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