Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/23/2015(UTC)
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hi and thanks in advance for your help. my dryer will not start. its an estate. last last week it would run so i replaced the broken door switch and the start button. neither fixed it so i replaced the thermal fuse on the lint stack and it started working again. until last night... it now won't start up. no noise from the motor. tub spins, belt is in place. i checked all the thermal fuses for ohms and checked the new door switch and they all look good. all electricity from the wall is good 220 total and 120 per leg into the dryer. same from the timer , when its on, i can hear the timer clicking and it will move as if the dryer is running. thanks for your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts Parts for Estate TEDS840PQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. [COLOR="Blue"]all electricity from the wall is good 220 total and 120 per leg[/COLOR] I do not know if this has anything to do with your problem but something is weird with the above. If you have 120 per side then you should have 240 volts not 220. Unplug the unit. Set the timer to mid scale timed dry. Use the most sensitive meter scale, usually 200 ohms. Also short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if there is a zero offsety in the meter. Attach one meter lead to L1 on the line cord and leave it there. Now work your way back through the motor circuit. BK on the timer should be 0 ohms. Also BU. Push the start button, both sides of it's contacts should be 0 ohms. Keep the start button depressed. Both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms. 4M on the motor should be 0 ohms. 5M on the meter should be about 1 to 2 ohms (motor windings). W (Timer Switch 0) on the timer should be 1 to 2 ohms. T on the timer should be 1 to 2 ohms. Blue wire on the door switch should be 1 to 2 ohms. White wire on the timer should be 1 to 2 ohms with the door switch depressed. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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