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smackover  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, July 14, 2015 4:13:25 PM(UTC)
smackover

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My Kenmore SxS fridge recently was only cooling to about 60 degrees and I did the research online and found that excessive frost build up could be the problem. I removed the rear panel from the back of the freezer and sure enough it was packed with frost. I took a hair dryer and melted it and the fridge returned to 38 degrees as expected.

Okay so I know I have a defrost problem and there could be 3 possible causes, 1) the defrost switch, 2) defrost thermostat and 3) the defrost heater. I'm not very handy with a volt meter but I do own one. However I noticed that I have what appears to be quite a bit of green corrosion from the copper all around the defrost thermostat where it clips onto the pipe. I'm wondering if this could be the cause of my problem. It is an inexpensive part to try at $23.

I have read several troubleshooting steps about turning the dial on the defrost switch until the unit shuts off and seeing if I hear the gurgling sound however I reviewed the parts list for my fridge and it doesn't list a defrost switch. I'm assuming there is a control board of some sort that handles this and I may not have an option to do this troubleshooting step?

What is the likelihood the green corrosion is the problem? What do you suggest I do next? I have attached a picture of the corrosion.

Thanks.
smackover attached the following image(s):
photo4.jpg
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, July 15, 2015 2:06:58 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts.
Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 10656689502 - AppliancePartsPros.com

If you go to the Sears parts site they have actual part breakdown diagrams.
Unfortunately they do not share these with other vendors.

I believe the control board is under the unit by the compressor.
Part number: AP3859538
Part number: AP3859538

Click on the picture for more info on the part.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.
It has info on how to force4 a defrost cycle.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle. When the fans and compressor turn off, you are in defrost

Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the board needs replacing, as it is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the board is toast.
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smackover  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, July 15, 2015 9:22:42 AM(UTC)
smackover

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Thanks den man. I will do what you suggested. I can't seem to find the tech sheet for the control board. Can you help point me in the right direction?
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, July 15, 2015 12:26:55 PM(UTC)
denman

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See the attachment for the tech sheet for the unit.

If you are looking for a wiring diagram (schematic) for the control board they do not publish one.
File Attachment(s):
656689502.pdf (639kb) downloaded 4 time(s).
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smackover  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, July 15, 2015 12:45:04 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the tech sheet. However I will need more hand holding to manually force a defrost cycle. It's not clear to me at all how to do this after reviewing the tech sheet. Thanks.
denman  
#6 Posted : Thursday, July 16, 2015 4:10:26 AM(UTC)
denman

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Sorry but I cannot explain it any better than is in the tech sheet.
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