Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/8/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Alright, so I think I shorted out my dryer or some-such. I was working on a broken timer and accidentally tried to test run the dryer while a metal component of the timer was in contact with the back of the dryer. The result was a quick little fire of some lint that was in the back of the dryer and quite an arc (not a bad show for 4th of July morning). There was no real damage though, other than a small scorch mark on the backsplash of the dryer. I have since replaced the timer however the dryer is still not working, reset the fusebox and tested the outlet to ensure I did not damage anything there, so I'm thinking the problem must be in the dryer. Did I blow the thermal fuse, or is there some other component that went bad in this event? Sorry if this is an obvious answer, but the only info that I could find is that the fuse goes when the dryer overheats, not when its shorted out.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi. Are you getting 240V at the outlet? If yes, check the rotary start switch for continuity with the knob turned on (unplug the dryer! and pull the double red wire off) between the double red wire terminal and any other one. If no continuity, install a jumper wire between these two terminals with all wires connected back. Turn the timer on and plug the power cord, make sure the door is closed. If the dryer starts don't let it run for more then a couple of seconds -unplug it ASAP. Replace the rotary start switch. You also have a belt tension switch and the door switch to test in case if the rotary switch tests as good and the dryer won't start. Here are the breakdown diagrams and parts list for your dryer: Model DBSR463EG6WW
Good luck. Please keep us posted with the results. Thank you, Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/8/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Thanks for you initial suggestions simon. I have tested the rotary start switch, thermal fuse, blower thermostat, belt tension and door switches, everything so far tests fine. The outlet is at 240V. If you read my post above, I have definitely shorted something out, any other electric components that I should test out?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
If you put the timer on Normal Timed Cycle the electrical circuit should be as followed:
The timer contacts B - C closed, the Hi-limit thermostat on the right side of the heater housing closed (two brown wires), start switch contacts 4 -2 closed (when the knob is turned), the belt switch contacts closed, the door switch Brown/Yellow (NO) to White (Common) closed. If all of the above listed parts are good you should get 120VAC between the M6 and M5 terminals at the motor switch.
If you read 120V at the motor switch but the motor does not run, it's time for a new motor.
The motor part number is AP5272287.
Thank you,
Simon.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Hate to revive an old 8 year post, but I recently did the same thing, and my dryer also isn’t working after the short and spark show. Any other electrical components that I should check? This is the only relevant information on Google about this specific issue, so forgive me for the revival of a decayed post. Edited by user Thursday, September 21, 2023 11:19:23 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Just did the same thing. On Christmas Eve. Fml.
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