Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Tomjenks  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 4, 2014 4:25:46 AM(UTC)
Tomjenks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8

I have a Kenmore model 25351399106 refrigerator that doesn't cool. No AC power appears to be reaching the compressor and the condenser fan doesn't run regardless of the temperature control settings. I'm leaning toward a fault in the temperature control or defrost cycle systems. Are there any things I can bypass to test any of these parts? I would also like to find a schematic diagram and service manual for this refrigerator. Any help or information will be greatly appreciated.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 4, 2014 7:23:22 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 25351399106 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Note: that if you go to the Sears site they have actual part breakdowns and a wiring diagram.
Unfortunately the do not share these with other vendors.

Here is a manual.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it.
http://appliancejunk.com...&id=288;t=1417709529

Your unit use two mechanical thermostats with an adaptive defrost board.

Have you tried unplugging the unit for a couple minutes to see if it will reset?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Tomjenks  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 4, 2014 8:59:53 AM(UTC)
Tomjenks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8

First of all, thanks for the link to the service manual. Now I know what I'm doing. With today's complex devices, we need service manuals or we're working blind.

The first thing I did was to unplug the refrigerator for an extended time. Unfortunately nothing changed.

Now I'm trying to remove the Control Housing Assembly. I removed the three screws in the front of the assembly and the two side screws, but the assembly is hanging on the right side. There seems to be another screw in the back of the assembly where the two water lines feed in to the water filter. It appears to have a 1/4" head like the others but it keeps turning, never releasing. I don't want to break the housing so I"m kind of stopped. The only other thing might be to drill it out. It doesn't seem to be needed to secure the assembly.
When I get it out I'll try to bypass the controls to see if the compressor will start.
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 4, 2014 9:41:22 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Sounds like it is stripped.

If you can get a knife etc. between the compartment roof and housing and twist/pry down on the control housing while turning the screw it should come out.
At least that is the theory.

I doubt you will be able to drill it out as it will just spin.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Tomjenks  
#5 Posted : Friday, December 5, 2014 10:49:29 AM(UTC)
Tomjenks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8

p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } I've removed the Control Housing Assembly and the Adaptive Defrost Control is bad. Can I buy the ADC by itself or do I need to buy the complete Control Box Kit AP5176342? When I apply 120 volts to pin 6 of the ADC the compressor will start and run, but I saw some smoke appeared to be coming from the start relay. That looks like part number AP5735381. I haven't checked the relay yet, but if it's shorted or if its resistance never rises so as to bypass the compressor start winding, can that cause all the other damage? Could something still be wrong with the compressor?
denman  
#6 Posted : Saturday, December 6, 2014 3:01:12 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I think you just need the ADC kit but I would check with the parts people as they know a lot more about parts than I do.
Part number: AP4909015
Part number: AP4909015

Click on the above for more info on the part.

[COLOR="Blue"]I haven't checked the relay yet, but if it's shorted or if its resistance never rises so as to bypass the compressor start winding, can that cause all the other damage?[/COLOR]
Yes it could as the compressor will overheat if the tart winding is left on all the time.

[COLOR="Blue"] Could something still be wrong with the compressor?[/COLOR]
Yes there could be.
Perhaps the following will help.
How To Fix a Refrigerator - Appliance Repair Guide - ACME HOW TO.com
Check the winding resistances and that they are not grounded.
Not that if the test fails it tells you that the compressor is bad.
But if it passes it does not mean that the compressor is good as it could have other internal problems.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Tomjenks  
#7 Posted : Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:53:38 AM(UTC)
Tomjenks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8

I apologize for coming back with so many questions. Hopefully, the answers I get will also help others having similar problems.

Compressor-wise, maybe I should replace the start relay (it is bad, rattles like maracas when I shake it, and I get infinite resistance between terminals 2 & 3 where the run capacitor goes). and run the compressor, it will start and run. Then, when the compressor is running check the current draw. How many amps should I see when the compressor is running?
denman  
#8 Posted : Saturday, December 6, 2014 7:17:45 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Yes I would replace the starter.

Sorry but I cannot find an amperage rating.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Tomjenks  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:16:05 AM(UTC)
Tomjenks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8

I replaced the start-run relay which got the compressor running again. It did cool, but the freezer only went down +17 degrees after 24 hours although the refrigerator was fine. It got down to 35 degrees. At this point I got a refrigeration tech to check it. He said the dryer-filter was clogged. He replaced the dryer-filter and recharged the system and it appears to be running fine. The freezer now gets down to -7 degrees and the refrigerator down to 35 degrees. I couldn't have done it without your help. Your appliance tech who signs as Denman has been a tremendous help, now on two appliances. He helped me with a Maytag dryer cabinet a few months ago. He directed me to the link to download the service manuals on my appliances and answered all my questions. All his answers were right on. I can't commend him enough! Thanks! So that's it. I can close this thread. I hope the information here can help others with similar problems.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (6)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.