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dougL  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 5, 2013 10:25:33 AM(UTC)
dougL

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Joined: 12/24/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Typical gas dryer problem: drum rotates, but no heat. Flame igniter does not glow and receives no power to the wires leading to the gas burner assembly.

1. All electrical components seem to test fine for continuity (with an analog meter)

2. Have already replaced: thermofuse, igniter, and timer.

3. These also have continuity: flame sensor, cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat.

4. I have followed the wiring diagram and the wires from the timer to the above parts all have continuity.

5. Door switch seems to work since it stops the drum from rotating when I open the door.

6. Terminals 1M and 2M of the centrifugal switch shows 120 volts when the drum motor runs, and 0 when off.

But how can that be, when still no power at points 1V and 3V, which is leading to the gas valves circuit?

A problem with the gas valves circuit? (I don't understand the gas burner wiring diagram: power has to go through valve 1 and either the flame sensor or valve 2?).

(For safety, gas has already been shut off and gas flex pipe has been detached)

What else is there to check for that would prevent power from reaching the ignitor and gas burner?

Any help would be appreciated before I throw more $ at seemingly good parts. This has been broken since summer!
dougL attached the following image(s):
Kenmore gas dryer 110.87477110 wiring diagram.jpg
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dougL  
#2 Posted : Sunday, December 8, 2013 9:34:55 AM(UTC)
dougL

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Joined: 12/24/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

I have continuity from L1 on power cord through new thermal fuse, then door switch, replaced timer, high limit thermostat, operating thermostat, all the way to point 3V leading to the valves.

Flame sensor and new ignitor have continuity.

Centrifugal switch 2M has continuity to power cord's neutral and shows 120 volts across 1M and 2M when operating.

Could the only remaining possibility be bad valves or coils?

Could anyone explain per the wiring diagram how the gas burner circuit works? Such as what is the hold coil and ass't coil, and how does power go through the valves? I have wires going to 2 solenoids. And from there, wires go to the ignitor which has no power.

Thank-you in advance. Have been without a dryer for months…...
dougL  
#3 Posted : Saturday, December 21, 2013 9:53:54 PM(UTC)
dougL

Rank: Member

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Joined: 12/24/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Originally Posted by: dougL Go to Quoted Post
I have continuity from L1 on power cord through new thermal fuse, then door switch, replaced timer, high limit thermostat, operating thermostat, all the way to point 3V leading to the valves.

Flame sensor and new ignitor have continuity.

Centrifugal switch 2M has continuity to power cord's neutral and shows 120 volts across 1M and 2M when operating.

Could the only remaining possibility be bad valves or coils?

Could anyone explain per the wiring diagram how the gas burner circuit works? Such as what is the hold coil and ass't coil, and how does power go through the valves? I have wires going to 2 solenoids. And from there, wires go to the ignitor which has no power.

Thank-you in advance. Have been without a dryer for months…...


I have replaced the coils, and ignitor still will not glow. Verify frustrating for several months. What else could there be?

I understand the wiring diagram except for the valves/coils circuit which don't seem to make sense.
Costa Rica Kim  
#4 Posted : Monday, December 23, 2013 4:15:45 AM(UTC)
Costa Rica Kim

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4

be sure you are disconnecting the heat sensors before testing for continuity.
remove at least one wire before testing.
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