Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram.
Parts for Maytag PYET344AZW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comPart of the diagram is missing. On the right hand side the RED wire attached to the MOTOR CENT SWITCH goes to the terminal strip in the unit re: L2.
Why did you replace the heater?
Was it visually bad or did you measure it and find it open or did you just feel it was the most likely cause?
You will need a meter to trouble shoot this properly.
First check the power. The motor, timer etc., all run off of half the line (120 volts) ( L1 to Neutral) but the heater requires the full 240 volts (L1 to L2).
You are messing with 240 volts so this is not a place to start learning about meter usage. Once you confirm that you have 240 volts then you can unplug the unit and use resistance (ohms) on the meter which is much safer.
You can then check the varios parts in the heater circuit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
