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Lower element wouldn't heat. Resistance on element and sensor tested OK. Then I taped the two leads into the thermal switch together and when I restored power the blower would not turn off. I went ahead and replaced the control panel but the blower still wouldn't turn off, although at first the lower element worked properly. Now the oven is returning an F3 fault code. Seems I shorted out a relay or another part when I taped those thermal switch leads together and turned on the power. I live in a remote area and can't get a repair person to my house. Can you help me please?
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Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire PLEB30S8ACB Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318046208.pdf[COLOR="Blue"] Lower element wouldn't heat. Resistance on element and sensor tested OK. Then I taped the two leads into the thermal switch together and when I restored power the blower would not turn off. I went ahead and replaced the control panel but the blower still wouldn't turn off, although at first the lower element worked properly.[/COLOR] Sorry but I am not sure what happened here. If the thermal switch you are referring to is Item 119 in the Body Parts section then this should not have any effect on the blower. It just kills power to the elements and should not effect the blower. I am assuming by blower that you are referring to the cooling fan and not the convection fan. Also looking at the part's picture it looks like it is resettable re: the red button pops up when it trips. [COLOR="Blue"]Now the oven is returning an F3 fault code.[/COLOR] I could not find error codes for this specific unit but F3 is an oven sensor error (too high of a resistance) on most Frigidaire units. Check the connection to it. It should be around 100 ohms at room temperature. [COLOR="Blue"] Seems I shorted out a relay or another part when I taped those thermal switch leads together and turned on the power.[/COLOR] Also not sure why you mention a short. When the thermal switch is closed then it is a short so I cannot see why shorting it's wires together would cause a problem. Did you see an arc, spark or smoke? Note: I seem to be unable to find the fan switch in the part's breakdown, perhaps you will have more luck. If you click on a parts picture then a new page will open with more info about that part. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/13/2012(UTC)
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Thank you Denman. My oven is fixed.
I retraced my steps and found that I caused my Blower problem by not properly re-installing the latch motor after I took it off to check connections.
Then I was getting a constant F3 fault code after I installed a new control panel. My probe resistance was fine at 1,100, so I addressed the probe's wire connections by spreading pins and otherwise assuring that I had good metal to metal connectivity from the probe to the control panel. Eureka! That solved the F3 problem and I'm back now with a properly functioning oven. :):):)
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