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FF code, Warm Air only, Fridge will not get cold at all. Please HELP.
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[FONT="Arial","sans-serif"]I have a GE TFXW27FRB Side by Side Refrigerator. It was workingperfectly last week but then the FF code started blinking and warm temperaturelight came on. Freezer was at 50+ degrees and fridge was at 65+ degrees. Ifound ice/frost located on the back of the freezer lower portion so I unpluggedit and let the frost melt. I removed the back and saw major frost ONLY on thelower coils between both heaters. Once that frost/ice was melted away thinkingis was just a defrosting issue, I replaced both the Defrost Thermostat #WR50X55and the Defrost Timer #WR9X489. After I replaced both items I plugged it backin. Seems like the compressor is working but not hearing it cycle and isblowing only ambient air. Current temps are 80+ degrees in the freezer, (mindyou it is almost 90 degrees in the house at the moment) and it is around thesame temp in the fridge side. I checked the doors and vents all are clear andworking as designed. Both fans (Freezer and compressor) are working as designedas well. [/FONT] [FONT="Arial","sans-serif"] I also checked thecontrol board behind the control panel and saw no evidence of burnt wires orelectrical issues. The FF code has returned after approximately 2 hours ofrunning and still no change in temps. Coils are also at room temp. Afterspeaking to my local appliance repair shop they suggested I turn the Defrost timer2 clicks to see if that changes anything. Unfortunately, the temps after 2hours are still around the 80 degree mark and the FF code has returned again. Notsure what else to replace. I am thinking that replacement of the Overloadswitch, Compressor Relay, Cold Control, Defrost Heaters, or Controller boardare all possible causes but where to start? Also on a slim chance, compressorfailure or no Freon but internet searches all state that both are unlikelycauses. I am LOST.. I don't know what else to replace or where to continue. Iam unemployed and cannot afford a $1,000 replacement fridge. Any ideas would beVERY GREATFUL… [/FONT]
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It does not sound like a defrost problem to me. The coils must be iced/frosted over to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them for it to be a defrost problem. Also the unit would have run OK till the coils frosted/iced up again due to no defrost.
I am assuming that the compressor is running all the time.
Check that it is running. You can usually hear it but you should also be able to feel it vibrating and it should be warm.
Unfortunately it sounds like a sealed system problem. If it is the compressor will run all the time and you will not get any frost or frost in just one area (usually where the freon enters the evaporator coils) on the evaporator coils.
Check the coils for the above. Be sure that the compressor has run for a couple hours before doing this. If you do it shortly after a defrost cycle then you may come to the wrong conclusion.
If it is a sealed system problem, it will be an expensive repair and usually it makes more sense to put those dollars towards a new unit. |
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[FONT="Times New Roman","serif"]I agree that it is not a defrost issue. Well not anymore....... I'velet it run for over 8 hours (overnight) and no change. Yes the compressor isvibrating but I'm not sure that it is cycling. I don't get a sound change. Ifit were low on Freon, the compressor would cycle faster right? Coils and tempinside both sides is ambient and this is after running for hours. If it is asealed system issue that would mean either the compressor has failed or it isout of Freon correct? Although the compressor relay and overload switch areinexpensive and since they activate the compressor which makes the Freon flow,would replacing one or both of those work? Also what does the FF code standfor. All the machine is telling me is freezer. [/FONT]
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I also forgot to add, I can hear liquid running through the coils. Although is just isn't getting cold at all.
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[COLOR="Blue"]Ifit were low on Freon, the compressor would cycle faster right?[/COLOR] No. If low on freon it will run continuously except during a defrost cycle. There is not enough freon to coll the entire evaporator coil so you do net get enough cooling and the compressor runs all the time trying to get the freezer down to the set pontb temperature.
[COLOR="Blue"] Coils and tempinside both sides is ambient and this is after running for hours. If it is asealed system issue that would mean either the compressor has failed or it isout of Freon correct?[/COLOR] Correct
[COLOR="Blue"] Although the compressor relay and overload switch areinexpensive and since they activate the compressor which makes the Freon flow,would replacing one or both of those work?[/COLOR] I do not think so as it sounds like the compressor is running and that is what these parts do.
[COLOR="Blue"]Also what does the FF code standfor. All the machine is telling me is freezer.[/COLOR] Not sure and I cannot find it anywhere for this unit. FF is usually a Freezer Fan error. Check that it is running. |
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[FONT="Times New Roman","serif"]Okay,so that would rule out the compressor relay, overload switch and compressorfailure:) , but still in the running for a possible cause is low Freon, cold control, and defrost heaters right:mad: ? Situation, fridge purchased 2 1/2 weeks ago used. Person who sold it to me had shown me live that freezer was at 1 degree F. There is no evidence that shows a Freon leak in the system plus I can hear liquid running through the coils in the back of the freezer. That said, how could it go from 1 degree F 2 weeks ago to 80 degrees F today. It sounds like the compressor is not cycling to me but I am by no means an expert. What makes the compressor cycle:confused: ? Is there a cyclingswitch:confused: ? I did not see one on the diagrams. As for the freezer fan, both that and the compressor fan were checked and are constantly running.[/FONT]
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[COLOR="Blue"]Okay,so that would rule out the compressor relay, overload switch and compressorfailure[/COLOR] Does not rule out compressor failure. The compressor could have mechanical problems re: it's motor runs but it does not compress the gas.
[COLOR="Blue"] , but still in the running for a possible cause is low Freon, cold control, and defrost heaters right ?[/COLOR] Since the compressor is running and the freezer is not cold, it is not the cold control. Unless the evaporator coils are heavily iced/frosted over, it is not a defrost problem.
[COLOR="Blue"]Situation, fridge purchased 2 1/2 weeks ago used. Person who sold it to me had shown me live that freezer was at 1 degree F.[/COLOR] Sorry but I missed that you just bought it. So it worked for a week and a half and then broke. Was it moved on it's side or at an angle. If yes did you leave it for 24 hours before plugging it in?
[COLOR="Blue"]There is no evidence that shows a Freon leak in the system plus I can hear liquid running through the coils in the back of the freezer. That said, how could it go from 1 degree F 2 weeks ago to 80 degrees F today. [/COLOR] Freon leak or compressor failure. You will not necessarily get any indication of a slow freon leak or a compressor failure other than no cooling. Moving it may have done this.
[COLOR="Blue"]It sounds like the compressor is not cycling to me but I am by no means an expert. What makes the compressor cycle ? Is there a cyclingswitch ? [/COLOR] Yes there is a cycling switch, it is the main/control thermostat in the unit. If the freezer does not reach the thermostat's set point (temperature setting) the compressor will run continuously. trying to cool the unit down. [COLOR="Blue"] I did not see one on the diagrams.[/COLOR] Item 424 in Section 4. |
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Does not rule out compressor failure. The compressor could have mechanical problems re: it's motor runs but it does not compress the gas.
Okay, I can understand that and yes it does run all the time.
, but still in the running for a possible cause is low Freon, cold control, and defrost heaters right ? Since the compressor is running and the freezer is not cold, it is not the cold control. Unless the evaporator coils are heavily iced/frosted over, it is not a defrost problem.
Well I have yet to see the frost/ice build up that I had before but that is because I cannot get the unit below the 80 degree mark.
Situation, fridge purchased 2 1/2 weeks ago used. Person who sold it to me had shown me live that freezer was at 1 degree F. Sorry but I missed that you just bought it. So it worked for a week and a half and then broke. Yes that is correct. Was it moved on it's side or at an angle. No
The fridge was moved standing up only. Leaned it a bit to get it onto and off the truck but other than that it was standing the whole time. If yes did you leave it for 24 hours before plugging it in?
There is no evidence that shows a Freon leak in the system plus I can hear liquid running through the coils in the back of the freezer. That said, how could it go from 1 degree F 2 weeks ago to 80 degrees F today. Freon leak or compressor failure. You will not necessarily get any indication of a slow freon leak or a compressor failure other than no cooling. Moving it may have done this. This is very possible and I can agree with you on this.
It sounds like the compressor is not cycling to me but I am by no means an expert. What makes the compressor cycle ? Is there a cyclingswitch ? Yes there is a cycling switch, it is the main/control thermostat in the unit. If the freezer does not reach the thermostat's set point (temperature setting) the compressor will run continuously. trying to cool the unit down.
Completly understand that
I did not see one on the diagrams. Item 424 in Section 4. Item 424 in section 4 is the Cold Control that I had mentioned before. Do you think that if the Cold Control has failed that the compressor would run but not cycle thus producing ambient air instead of cold air? Question, Let's say that the compressor is running constantly, and lets assume that the system has a reasonalble amount of Freon in it. If the cold control/cycling switch for the compressor has failed I would still receive air but wouldn't get cold correct?
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Okay,Let's look at the facts and some questions that I have. Fact: Compressor is humming and getting warm tothe touch. Question: Does the compressor work as designed? Fact: Both fans work and all coils bothunderneath and inside the freezer are clear and unobstructed. Fact: There is some liquid in the lines because Ican hear it but is it enough. Question: Is there enough Freon in the system? Fact: New T-stat & Timer replaced for the Defrostsystem. Question: Defective T-stat or Timer? Fact: Relay and Overload switch not likely causesbecause compressor runs. Question: If the compressor works but is not cycling correctlyto compress the liquid into gas, is the internal system i.e. Condenser cloggedinternally, the compressor bad or is the cold control bad causing thecompressor not to cycle correctly? Fact: Cold controller does turn the compressor onand off manually. Possiblecauses: Compressor failed, cloggedInternal condenser, Cold Control failed, Little or no Freon in the system. Question: If there is little or no Freon in thesystem then why can I hear liquid running in the coils in the back of thefreezer? Follow-upquestion: If there is little tono Freon in the system why would it freeze the back coils prior to the replacementof the T-stat and Timer but now it won't get cold? Fact: Soap testing on the coils inside thefreezer show no signs of a leak visually. Although this does not mean thatthere is not a leak in the system. Question: If the cold control unit has failed, whycan I turn off the compressor by turning the switch to the off position? Question: If the compressor has failed, why does it continuallyrun unless unplugged or turned off by the cold control switch? Question: Does not having the back panel installedaffect the internal temperature inside the freezer?
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FF code, Warm Air only, Fridge will not get cold at all. Please HELP.
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