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Gene  
#51 Posted : Monday, July 9, 2012 5:28:37 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Unfortunately, there are no clear troubleshooting instructions provided by Whirlpool in such situation. At least you can save a lot by ordering parts from APP because of their very friendly return policy.

Gene.
j_hagner  
#52 Posted : Tuesday, February 18, 2014 3:16:41 PM(UTC)
j_hagner

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Joined: 2/18/2014(UTC)
Posts: 5

The symptoms are pretty specific for the F11 code on the Whirlpool Duet front loaders and clones (Kenmore Elite and KitchenAid):

If the washer starts to fill but the drum NEVER moves, your MCU is bad

If the washer runs through most of a cycle and then gives the F11 before (or during) a rinse or spin cycle, then you have the CCU relay problem.

If you are interested in having me repair your CCU for you, I offer that service on "e bay" (website coming soon). My username there is "jhagner"

Thanks
BAMIowa  
#53 Posted : Monday, January 19, 2015 7:23:57 AM(UTC)
BAMIowa

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Joined: 1/19/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1

Thank you so much for this thread -- and for not deleting because most of the posts were a couple of years ago. This helped me identify the problem myself for a no-cost repair. I had purchased a $100 door latch that I can now return. Turns out that one of the CCU connectors had jarred loose. Ha...the washing machine version of "is it plugged in?" Now I'm working on a week's worth of laundry on my MLK day off. Thanks again...you all rock!
Woodbubba  
#54 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2015 7:30:17 AM(UTC)
Woodbubba

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Joined: 7/25/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2

I've fought this problem with our Whirlpool Duet washer off and on now for 11 years. I've changed the CCU multiple times only to have it reoccur. After the last time swapping the CCU back to the original and having the problem go away I started just removing and reseating the cables associated with the door lock. They are labeled DL3 and DL5 on the board. That has fixed the problem multiple times. About two years ago I found a product called Stabilant 22 on Amazon. It's a bit pricy but I purchased the smallest kit and the pure isopropyl required to mix with the compound. Once inside the washer I treated every connector on the CCU and elsewhere that was accessible from the top of the machine. That completely resolved the problem until today. Again reseating DL3 and DL5 resolved the problem. I had enough Stabilant to retreat those connectors so did so. Two years of no problem was a great improvement over the every 90 days or six months I was having the failure before. The bottom line is that Whirlpool has an extremely poor electrical connection design for a system that operates in a high humidity and vibration environment. You won't find any admission on their part anywhere that I can locate. No promises of course but it has worked well for me and is way cheaper than swapping CCUs.
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