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I turned on my oven to cook a pizza and checked the oven ten minutes later to find the oven was still cold. Took the oven apart and noticed the glow bar does not light up when I turn on the oven. I don't smell gas when I turn on the oven. Half of the glow bar look ashy.
About a week ago I was using the oven and it seemed like the oven was taking longer to cook then usual. I then used the broiler after and the broiler didn't work. A few days later I used the oven and it seemed to work. Now the oven and broiler are completely dead. I am not getting any codes on the EOC. The burners on top work.
How do I find out if it's the ignitor/glowbar or the oven burner?
Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Quote:the glow bar does not light up when I turn on the oven. I don't smell gas when I turn on the oven. I would hope you wouldn't smell gas as it could be dangerous to release gas into the oven without it being lit. It is a safety precaution built into that oven ignition design, no ignitor = no gas. Quote:How do I find out if it's the ignitor/glowbar or the oven burner? The 'burner' would have nothing to do with it, it is just a pipe which gas flows through. Components which could cause your symptom include the ignitor, oven gas valve and the control system. Both the ignitor and gas valve should be able to be checked for continuity to see if they might be responsible. If either had no continuity at all, it would be a sure sign of failure as described for that type of oven ignition system at the following link: LINK > Understanding Gas Oven Ignition SystemsYou can see those components from your model at the following links: LINK > Kenmore 790.71513403 Oven IgnitorLINK > 790.71513403 Oven Gas ValveJFYI Dan O. www.Appliance411.com
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I tested the ignitor for continuity by following the wires to the back of the stove and it has continuity. The gas valve was replaced about 2 years ago but I will check it. According to the link Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems , it sounds like testing the ignitor and gas valve for continuity does not rule them out as being faulty (unless you get no continuity). Is there a more definite way of testing them? Thanks! Originally Posted by: Dan O. 
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The only way the ignitor would not glow * at all* was if either the gas valve or ignitor was electrically open (no continuity) or their circuit not receiving power. They still might not be good even if they had continuity but neither should be responsible for the total failure of the ignitor to glow. Quote:I tested the ignitor and it has continuity. The gas valve was replaced 2 years ago but I will check it. Just because a part was replaced some time in the past, doesn't necessarily mean it is good now. As long as both those components had continuity and the wiring to the valve and ignitor was also good, the problem would have to be the ignition circuit just not being powered. That would most likely in the control itself since there doesn't look to be anything else in the ignition circuit on your model to stop the flow of power to the ignitor. Quote:Is there a more definite way of testing them? Proper functioning of the ignitor * when glowing* can only be assured by testing with the use of an ammeter or amprobe. That circuit must draw a specific amount of current. Drawing the proper amperage = ignitor good, leaving the oven valve as the likely culprit. Improper amperage = bad ignitor. Unfortunately most homeowners do not usually have such a specific test instrument in their toolbox. When such a test is required the options are usually call in a professional or just guess at the likely culprit and use trial and error by replacing one suspect component at a time. JMO Dan O. www.Appliance411.com
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Thank you for explaining it. Makes more sense now. My ammeter measures up to 10A. Would it be adequate to measure current on my stove? Would I also need a current clamp? Originally Posted by: Dan O. ... Proper functioning of the ignitor * when glowing* can only be assured by testing with the use of an ammeter or amprobe. That circuit must draw a specific amount of current. Drawing the proper amperage = ignitor good, leaving the oven valve as the likely culprit. Improper amperage = bad ignitor. Unfortunately most homeowners do not usually have such a specific test instrument in their toolbox. When such a test is required the options are usually call in a professional or just guess at the likely culprit and use trial and error by replacing one suspect component at a time. JMO Dan O. www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site =D~~~~~~
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC)
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~ Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems ~ wrote:
"An ignitor with a white or beige colored rectangular base should draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps."
A clamp-on ammeter is the easiest type to use to measure the ignitor circuit but not absolutely necessary. JFYI Dan O. www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site =D~~~~~~
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