Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/9/2007(UTC) Posts: 1
|
THE LID SWITCH BROKE ON MY WASHER. HOW DO I GET TO IT TO REPLACE IT? ALSO WHAT SCREWS I CAN SEE ON THE WASHER ARE VERY RUSTY, ANY IDEAS BESIDES WD40 ON GETTING THEM OUT?
I also have a washer from an LSE1000 Series 1 that works. Will it work with the controller on the series 10?
Thanks,
Rich:(
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 1
|
Rich, Don't know if you have resolved this problem or not, but I have the same issue. I know the front comes off this model, but I think the slant panel has to come off first. My lid problem only began after a 3 month summer vacation during which I kept my a/c off and my basement got so damp nearly everything was mildewed or rusted. Anyway, I never shut my lid all the way when I am finished washing, in order to keep less wear and tear on the switch. It will finally engage (I get an "L" prompt on the panel) if I open and close the lid enough times, sometimes, having to turn off and on as many as 15 times before it will work. I know that's not a good workaround, but from what I could see when once I put the setting on Pause and opened the lid while the tub was filing, I think the water input hose needs cleaning because it sprays all over the inside and edges of the tub. It usually works well, once I can get it going. I think the lid sensing mechanism has rusted from last summer's humidity and now that the spray is going everywhere, that's contributing to the problem. When I can save enough money, I'll hire a repairman. Good luck in troubleshooting your washer.
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close