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Whirlpool dryer-thermal fuse keeps blowing
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Model: LE5810XPW0 Brand: Whirlpool Age: More than 10 years
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needs help  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 10:15:06 AM(UTC)
needs help

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Whirlpool dryer wasn't heating. Checked continuity on heat riser, thermal switch and thermal fuse. Thermal fuse was bad. Replaced thermal fuse. Dryer heated for part of a load then quit heating. Checked thermal fuse again. It was bad. What is blowing the thermal fuse? Do I understand correctly the thermal fuse reacts to excessive heat? If I have this correct, what would be causing excessive heat? What else should I check? And how?

Thanks!
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sidfink43  
#2 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 10:40:29 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

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When lint and other debris builds up in your venting system, the dryer will start to over-heat and eventually catch on fire. The thermal fuse blows to shut off the heating coils and prevent this fire.

The thermal fuse is like an electrical fuse, except it blows from excessive heat instead of excessive current.

Open up your dryer and clean out everything with a high pressure air hose. Pay particular attention to the vent from the drum to the outside and get it completely clean.

This should solve your problem, and your dryer will run a lot better.
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needs help  
#3 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 12:49:11 PM(UTC)
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Thank you for your reply. After posting the question I was taken to more threads that did talk about the venting system. I took the vent hose off the back and checked that the air blowing out was blowing hard and then put the hose back on and checked the outside end of the vent hose. It also seemed to be blowing hard and unobstructed. Would this be any indication of the condition of the venting system?

Thanks again.
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sidfink43  
#4 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 1:04:14 PM(UTC)
sidfink43

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Sorry, no, you can have air blowing hard and still have an obstruction. I have had strong air flow yet when I went into the vent system I found bottles, action figures, etc.

Given your problem you need to eliminate an obstruction as a cause, which means opening up the machine and determining that absolutely nothing is obstructing the air flow. I would take out the drum to clean all around, but getting anything out of the air flow system is the major priority.

After you do this, and put in your new thermal fuse, you will either have fixed the problem or eliminated air flow obstruction as a cause. You do this step because (a) it is the least expensive thing to do and (b) it is the most likely cause of your problem.

Good luck, and please post how it works out.
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denman  
#5 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 2:48:52 PM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE5810XPW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Since the symptom is no heat I am assuming that you replaced the thermal fuse on the heater.
Did you also replace the HiLimit, they come as a set See Item 7 in Section 4.
The HiLimit is supposed to open before the fuse blows.

You are actually sucking the air through the heater so any large air leak or restriction in the system will cause a heater to run too hot.

Note sometimes the blower wheel can strip out so it spins but is now really attached properly to the motor's shaft.

If you are sure the vent is clear and the blower wheel is good other causes could be.
1. drum seals
2. foam seals in the heater/blower path
3. lint filter - sometimes if you use fabric softener it can coat the screen greatly reducing the air flow. Clean it with soap and water. If it is really bad it will even close off holes at the back of the dryer drum.
4. door seal
6. cycling thermostat contacts may be welded shut. Remove it, heat the face up with a soldering gun or put is on a stove element, check that they do open.
7. grounded element causing a hot spot in the heater. Remove both wires from the heater and measure from them to the frame. Sould be infinite ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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