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My washer will not tumble the clothes during the wash cyxle or spin them. I have no error codes when I enter the test modes.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 816
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Hello adeguisto. First you will need to test the motor and see if it is good. The motor assembly consists of a reversible,
variable speed, 3-phase induction DC motor, and
sensor. The motor drives the tub drive pulley with
a 7-rib belt. The sensor monitors motor rpm and
is connected to the control board. The motor
assembly is checked from the front of the washer and removed from the rear. There are 2 methods to check the motor assembly.
Method A:
Remove the service panel.
Disconnect the motor wire harness.
On the motor plug, check for an approximate
resistance value of 6 ohms between any two of the
three wires:
Blue to white - 6 Ω
Blue to red - 6 Ω
White to red - 6 Ω
The sensor has a resistance value of
approximately 118
Ω between the two orange
wires.
Operation of the motor assembly can be checked
by using service test modes t10, t11, and t14.
Method B:
Remove the service panel.
Remove the single Phillips-head screw that
holds the right front leg of the inverter to the base pan.
Slide the inverter rearward to clear the guides
that hold the rear of the inverter to the base
pan.
Position the inverter to access the inverter board. On the inverter board, check for an approximate
resistance value of 6 ohms between any two of
the three terminals:
A to B (Blue to white) - 6
Ω
A to C (Blue to red) - 6 Ω
B to C (White to red) - 6 ΩNote:
The sensor and sensor wiring can be checked
at the control board. Check for a resistance value
of approximately 118
Ω
resistance between the 2
yellow wires located on the wire harness located atP9.
If the motor checks good, you will want to check and see if the inverter is good.
Remove the service panel.
Press the 4 tabs inward and remove the junction
box cover.
Enter test mode t10, t11, or t14.
Check for 120 VAC between the blue and red
wires at the AC input harness.
The 120 VAC inverter supply voltage is present
only when the motor is supposed to be operating.
Unplug washer, then check motor resistance.
If 120 VAC is present at the AC input harness and
motor resistance is correct, replace the inverter.
If 120 VAC is not present at the AC input harness,
replace the main control board.
Here is how you enter service mode.
The washer control has a service test mode that can be utilized by the service technician in order to test
critical components and to access error codes. This test mode will help the service technician to quickly
identify failed or improper operation of washer components.
Caution:
Testing is accomplished through built-in test procedures. Unplugging components for testing can damage component connections.
Machine must be in idle mode before entering test. Idle mode occurs when the washer has completed a cycle. If the cycle is interrupted, the washer will drain water when the power is re-applied. The water level switch must reset BEFORE the test mode can be entered. If water remains in the washer, manually drain the washer to reset the water level switch. A failed water level switch can cause an inability to enter the test
mode.
To enter the test mode:
Press power button to clear any current cycles.
The display must be blank to proceed.
Disconnect the power for 30 seconds.
Reconnect power and within 30 seconds of
reconnecting power:
Press signal button.
Press delay start button.
Press signal button.
Press delay start button. (The door will lock,
then will display t01.)
A washer left in the test mode will exit the test
mode and unlock the door after a period of 2 hours.
To exit the test mode:
Press signal button.
Press delay start button.
Press signal button.
Press delay start button.
Attempting to exit the service mode by
disconnecting the power will result in a locked
washer.
Hope this helps.
Part number: AP3872963
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/14/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Having the same problem. Thing is, those two yellow wires from the P9 connector on the main board go to the connector just upstream of the inverter, but only one of them comes out of that connector. There isn't even a pin for the other one. I've confirmed that in the picture of the connector on this website, http://cdn.appliancepart...10418-ap4421584_05_m.jpg, left middle socket has no pin. So, testing for 118 ohms between those two wires on the P9 connector should not work, right? I've got no continuity between connectors 4 and 5 on the motor, where those two wires should go, and where the two orange wires you mentioned come out of, but before I drop $300 on a new motor, I want to make sure I'm not mistaken, here.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/14/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Confirmed: testing for 118 ohms at the P9 connector on the main board does not work, at least on models with the above referenced inverter, part #AP4421584. It's not visible from the main board at the top of the machine, but one of the two yellow leads does not go all the way to the sensor on the motor, but instead stops at the connector before the inverter, under the plastic cover at the front lower left corner of the machine. The only way to test the sensor is to unplug the main connector on the motor and test between pins 4 and 5 -- the two orange wires referenced above.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/27/2017(UTC)
Posts: 1
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Originally Posted by: EdMuse  Confirmed: testing for 118 ohms at the P9 connector on the main board does not work, at least on models with the above referenced inverter, part #AP4421584. It's not visible from the main board at the top of the machine, but one of the two yellow leads does not go all the way to the sensor on the motor, but instead stops at the connector before the inverter, under the plastic cover at the front lower left corner of the machine. The only way to test the sensor is to unplug the main connector on the motor and test between pins 4 and 5 -- the two orange wires referenced above. I have the same issue. If I test across the connector on the motor, I get the 118 ohms. I assume that means the motor is good. That leaves the inverter as being the problem?
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