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tyke58  
#1 Posted : Thursday, November 8, 2007 7:49:46 AM(UTC)
tyke58

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I have a Jenn-Air ww27430 Double wall oven that is having some issues. About a week ago the display dimmed to a point where it was impossible to see the read out on the LED display, but the oven worked and was functioning. Last night I took it apart thinking there might be a bulb that I could replace. Seeing that there was no servicable parts, I put it back together. All I did was to disconnect the control board from the door and then reconnect it. The connections only go on one way. When I reconnected the electric connection, an alarm goes off on the control panel itself and will not shut off. The oven no longer works and the only switch that seems to work on a temporary basis is the cancel and oven light. I left the electric connection off overnight and now asking for your advise.

Thanks-
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DPBAMS@AOL.COM  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, August 27, 2008 7:16:24 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: tyke58 Go to Quoted Post
I have a Jenn-Air ww27430 Double wall oven that is having some issues. About a week ago the display dimmed to a point where it was impossible to see the read out on the LED display, but the oven worked and was functioning. Last night I took it apart thinking there might be a bulb that I could replace. Seeing that there was no servicable parts, I put it back together. All I did was to disconnect the control board from the door and then reconnect it. The connections only go on one way. When I reconnected the electric connection, an alarm goes off on the control panel itself and will not shut off. The oven no longer works and the only switch that seems to work on a temporary basis is the cancel and oven light. I left the electric connection off overnight and now asking for your advise.

Thanks-


I have same model and replaced the control panel and the oven works but displays error message F7. The alarm also sounds. The Jenn-Air rep I called said the F7 code indicates a switch short. Were you able to repair your oven? Please advise.
Gene  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:30:26 PM(UTC)
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DPBAMS@AOL.COM,

Which part did you replace: the membrane switch or the control board (aka clock)?

The model number WW27430 is incomplete. There suppose to be one or two more letters after 0. Also what is the color of the control panel?

Gene.
Gene  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:35:52 PM(UTC)
Gene

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tyke58,

If the display is dimmed then the display board (aka clock) has to be replaced. No doubt about it.

The went off alarm could be because of loose ribbon connection or broken ribbon. Try to reconnect it and if it would not work then the membrane switch has to be replaced.

The model number WW27430 is incomplete. There suppose to be one or two more letters after 0. Also what is the color of the control panel?

Gene.
birdbox  
#5 Posted : Thursday, November 25, 2010 5:11:32 PM(UTC)
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OK, I just fixed my aunts two jenn air ovens that had dim (so dim you can't see at all) displays. Instead of paying 250 bucks for a new clock control mechanism, replace one part that you can purchase at your local radio shack for $1.49. From the moment my screwdriver touched the oven to the moment I finished putting the last screw back in after the fix.....less than 10 minutes. I replaced the C3 capacitor (which is 68 microFarads at 35Volts) with a radio chack 100microFarads (uF) 35V cap costing 1.49 bucks. What was quoted as costin 275 for parts and 160 for labor for each of two ovens was fixed for 3.00 dollars and all of 15 minutes of my time and labor. Knowledge required:

1. Turn off your oven power at your circut breaker.
2. Be able to remove 4 screws to pull off the panal with the buttons and display.
3. Be able to remove a ribbon cable (ie, having at least 3 fingers on each of two hands left)
4. De-Solder the C3 capacitor and resolder the new radio shack 100uF 35V capacitor.
5. Reassemble and then bask in the glory of saving over 400 bucks in repair costs for a part that cost a buck fifty!
6. Get pissed off as all hell that some official repair man was going to rip you off for something you can do yourself.


Do not trust any appliance man who says "it's gotta be a bad display", that's gonna need replacing. It's not the display as a whole, it's a single capacitor that fails due to a defect in the door hinge, which lets hot humid air out the top of the oven door, eventually (after 5+years) shorting a capacitor which costs all of a dollar fifty to replace. I believe it to be capitalism at it's finest. Poor engineering or worse yet, designed defects to add money to jenn airs repairs department.

If you can't solder a capacitor, find a friend who can and bake them some cookies, a cake, or just buy them a 6 pack for saving you a big repair bill.

This fix works for any jenn air oven that has a bad display, but otherwise is in working order.

Cheers from your local Aerospace Engineer, Daniel.
thanks 1 user thanked birdbox for this useful post.
Fang on 2/18/2021(UTC)
Leanna  
#6 Posted : Sunday, December 5, 2010 5:18:29 PM(UTC)
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Hi Daniel, I read your tip on fixing the Jenn Aire wall oven. I am experiencing a problem with my oven and would love to fix it myself if possible. I followed your steps 1 and 2. However, once I took a look, not being an Aerospace Engineer, I have no idea how to identify the C3 capacitor. Also, since my problem may involve a different component than yours (mine is not working at all and beeping constantly unless I switch off at the circuit breaker - similar to what has been described by several others), how did you determine which part was defective? Any hints you could provide to get me started would be greatly appreciated?
birdbox  
#7 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 2:10:25 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Leanna Go to Quoted Post
Hi Daniel, I read your tip on fixing the Jenn Aire wall oven. I am experiencing a problem with my oven and would love to fix it myself if possible. I followed your steps 1 and 2. However, once I took a look, not being an Aerospace Engineer, I have no idea how to identify the C3 capacitor. Also, since my problem may involve a different component than yours (mine is not working at all and beeping constantly unless I switch off at the circuit breaker - similar to what has been described by several others), how did you determine which part was defective? Any hints you could provide to get me started would be greatly appreciated?

OK Leanna, we may have a problem here. The fix I posted is for an oven that is in perfect working order, other than the fact that the display is blank. Now, with that being said, replacing the C3 cap may allow you to see the display and then troubleshoot the "beeping" problem by putting the oven into diagnostics mode. I can't tell you how to do the diagnostics, because I didn't need to do that.The information for diagnostics is available online. So here's my suggestion.
1. Replace the C3 capacitor. --There should be little labels on the brown fiberglass board that all the electronic components. If you can't find a label, simply look for the cylindrical shaped component (usually blue in color), about the diameter of a pencil and perhaps 1/2 inch long. There should be three of them, all slightly different sizes. Regardless, they all have labels on them telling you thier capacitance in uF (microFarads) and maximum voltage. Find the little blue cylinder component that says 68uF 35V on the side. Also note that these electronic components are directional(there is a "-" [minus] sign showing the negative terminal) and when you install the new 100uF (microFarad) capacitor from Radio Shack, make sure the "-" minus sign is the same as the original capacitor. Once you replace this capacitor, you can reassemble and should have a working display. After that is working, you'll have to do some research to figure out how to check the diagnostics on the oven for the beeping problem.

Make sure you find someone who knows how to solder. It's pretty easy, but you can screw things up if you short components with too much solder. I hope this helps.

My guess is the reason for the failure is the poorly designed door hinge which lets hot air escape and rises up through the unsealed electronics display, eventually shorting components from the high humidity.
Leanna  
#8 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 2:44:59 PM(UTC)
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Hi Daniel, Thanks for the quick response. I forgot to mention that the oven flashes an "F3" code. It just doesn't work at all and none of the controls are responsive. Also, I only use the oven a few times per year and interestingly, I had not used it for several weeks when this happened.
birdbox  
#9 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 3:41:19 PM(UTC)
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Leanna,

If you see "F3" on the display, clearly the display is working and the fix I posted won't do the trick. My suggestion is to look on this forum and all over the web for the diagnostics codes and what they mean. There may be a quick and easy fix out there for you, and then again, there may not be one. I am by no means an appliance repair man so I can't help out other than looking up the F3 code online and doing some research.

I can attest from the fix I was able to provide for my aunts tow ovens that the knolwedge is out there and if you're willing to put in a few hours, you'll likely figure out what's wrong and know what it'll take to fix it. Then you can determine if you want to attempt the fix yourself, or hire someone to fix it for you. I can tell you that the Jenn Air ovens were poorly engineered. The oven door has no latch to hold it shut tightly to prevent escaping hot humid air. Also, the electronics board has nothing sealing it to separate it from the gases that do escape from the top of the oven door. These hot humid gases will infiltrate the electronics board and slowly destroy components that are vulnerable to humidity and high heat. This may be Jenn Airs way of "designed obselecence" to keep customers commming back for repairs. Companies these days just don't want to make products that truly last a lifetime. It's bad buisness to make a product that lasts forever. I hope you're able to find a fix to your problem. As I mentioned, the knowledge is out there for those of us who have the determination to learn how to "do it yourself". Good Luck.
Originally Posted by: Leanna Go to Quoted Post
Hi Daniel, Thanks for the quick response. I forgot to mention that the oven flashes an "F3" code. It just doesn't work at all and none of the controls are responsive. Also, I only use the oven a few times per year and interestingly, I had not used it for several weeks when this happened.
Leanna  
#10 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 4:03:46 PM(UTC)
Leanna

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Thanks, Daniel. I'll continue looking. What I found so far is just replacing the whole control board, but I couldn't get a clear picture of whether this recommendation actually worked. Good thing I don't use the oven much. That will give me more time to investigate. Thanks again, Leanna:)
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