Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/21/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5
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thank you richappy, I will try that!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/21/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5
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There was a light frost throughout all the fins. I’m taking it that would be the good news!
When I first plugged it in there was a few clicks and then it ran just fine for 5 hours or so until it reached the designated temperature before shutting off. Each time it came on there were more clicks and the temp started to warm up on the thermometer I put in the frig.
[FONT="]Do you have any other ideas on this? Thank you I appreciate your help! [/FONT]
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Failure to put the run capacitor in probably damaged the compressor windings. The compressor is designed to require a run capacitor to aid in poor starting conditions and re-start while still under high pressure. It is now basically a hard starting compressor.
One fix is to install a lower resistance ptc as mentioned in my article "replacing compressor start devices", just put that in the fridg search box.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/21/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5
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It always ran with a capacitor in it.
I had ordered the two parts (relay and capacitor), but just put the new relay in first, because I wasn’t sure what was causing the problem. These parts were factory recommended identical to the ones I took out, and I had done a drawing on where the wires were supposed to go.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Ok there, if you want to fix it yourself, you will need an amp probe and good digital meter.You will need these to properly test the current draw and to change to a discrete ptc start device.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/21/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5
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OK, thank you richappy for all your responses and help with this, I do appreciate it!
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