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dryer timer/cycle will not advance on auto setting
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Model: AP2106564 Brand: Frigidaire Age: 5 - 10 years
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treehugger  
#1 Posted : Friday, December 24, 2010 8:49:23 AM(UTC)
treehugger

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My electric dryer sometimes will and sometimes will not advance forward when set on automatic/permanant press cycle. I replaced the timer and it still will sometimes not advance. Is the thermostat the problem? Is there a moisture sensor that could be faulty?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, December 24, 2010 9:57:10 AM(UTC)
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I cannot find any info on the given model number.
It comes up as an air purifier.
Please check it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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treehugger  
#3 Posted : Friday, December 24, 2010 10:02:35 AM(UTC)
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That model number would be FDE336RES0
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denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, December 25, 2010 2:55:05 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDE336RES0 Frg(v3) / Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a better wiring diagram.
Note: That it is for a RES2 not a RES0 but it should be close and is clearer that the wiring diagram included with the parts.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/131850300.pdf

This is going to be a real pain to find since it is intermittent!!!

[COLOR="Blue"]Is the thermostat the problem?[/COLOR]
It could be but the clothes would be very hot when you open the drier as the thermostat would not be cycling.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is there a moisture sensor that could be faulty?[/COLOR]
There is no moisture sensor in this unit.

In timed dry the timer motor gets power directly from the line through tthe X/TM contacts in the timer.

In auto modes it gets power through the heating coil when the heating coil is shut off.
The circuit path is: L2 , M2/M1 motor's centrifugal switch , HEATER , BLK wire , R timer connector , 4.4 Kohm resistor , TM timer contact , TIMER MOTOR , R timer connector , R/B timer contacts , L1

The resistor is there to drop the L1 to L2 voltage (240 volts) down to the 120 volts required by the timer motor.

It could be a loose connection anywhere in that circuit.

A common cause is a grounded element. The element sags and touches the case/frame. Then the element may never be totally off so the timer does not advance. Since it is intermittent the element may be sagging, touching the case and then when it cools down opening again.
You could check the inside of the heater for any signs of this.
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treehugger  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 8:37:34 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDE336RES0 Frg(v3) / Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a better wiring diagram.
Note: That it is for a RES2 not a RES0 but it should be close and is clearer that the wiring diagram included with the parts.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/131850300.pdf

This is going to be a real pain to find since it is intermittent!!!

Is the thermostat the problem?
It could be but the clothes would be very hot when you open the drier as the thermostat would not be cycling.

Is there a moisture sensor that could be faulty?
There is no moisture sensor in this unit.

In timed dry the timer motor gets power directly from the line through tthe X/TM contacts in the timer.

In auto modes it gets power through the heating coil when the heating coil is shut off.
The circuit path is: L2 , M2/M1 motor's centrifugal switch , HEATER , BLK wire , R timer connector , 4.4 Kohm resistor , TM timer contact , TIMER MOTOR , R timer connector , R/B timer contacts , L1

The resistor is there to drop the L1 to L2 voltage (240 volts) down to the 120 volts required by the timer motor.

It could be a loose connection anywhere in that circuit.

A common cause is a grounded element. The element sags and touches the case/frame. Then the element may never be totally off so the timer does not advance. Since it is intermittent the element may be sagging, touching the case and then when it cools down opening again.
You could check the inside of the heater for any signs of this.




I measured the heating coil for resistance and it came in at 12 ohms.

It is not touching the frame when cold (confirmed by visual inspection and ohm measurement)and can see no marks indicating it is touching when it heats up.

I measured the resister and it came in at 3000ohms.

When this problem first started i replaced the timer and according to my tenant who uses the dryer it "worked for one load, then went back to not advancing in auto mode" ..... this is why i stated in the beginning the problem was intermittent.
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treehugger  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 1:01:06 PM(UTC)
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So, I may have found the problem. The cycling thermostat, part # 15 on the motor parts diagram page. The blue wire terminal to orange/black stripe wire terminal should read 28k ohms according to the wiring diagram. I'm getting a reading of 1 on my digital multimeter ie,(open circuit) when testing with the wires disconnected. Could this be my problem?
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denman  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 11:36:44 PM(UTC)
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Yes it could especially on a delicate cycle.

This a heater built into the thermostat. It is turned on for low heat cycles. It adds heat to the control thermostat causing it to cycle more often. This then lowers the heat output of the unit and also sends power to the timer more often in auto modes.

Another thing you should check is the resistor (Item 14 in Section 3) (looks like a piece of wire). This is the 4,400 resistor in the wiring diagram. It reduces the 240 volts through the heater when turned off to 120 volts which is required by the timer motor. If it is blown the timer will not advance in auto modes.

I think you have it pretty well licked.
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treehugger  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, January 5, 2011 4:28:51 AM(UTC)
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Item 14 , the power resistor, seems to be faulty as I am getting a 1 reading, no reading, (open circuit) on that.
HOw likly is it both my cycling thermostat AND this resistor both are bad at the same time?
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denman  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, January 5, 2011 4:54:22 AM(UTC)
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They may not have blown at the same time.

Perhaps the thermostat heater went first and unless you opened the unit up during a delicate cycle you would never of noticed that the unit was running hot.
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