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Dryer started like normal but shut down within a few minutes and won't restart. Dryer is not functioning at all...even the light inside isn't working.
Cleaned inside machine and ducts, and removed several large, compacted clumps of lint and debris, tripped circuit box, checked the outlet for power with a meter, was good, Still nothing...not even the light.
Timer advances when set to timed dry but does nothing if set on auto dry. Is the machine dead, or is it possible that a new thermostat and/or thermal fuse can bring it back to life?
I have an ohm meter but I don't know exactly where to touch. Any reading that I get...I second guess the accuracy due to my lack of skill.
Any input or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: margs  Dryer started like normal but shut down within a few minutes and won't restart. Dryer is not functioning at all...even the light inside isn't working.
Cleaned inside machine and ducts, and removed several large, compacted clumps of lint and debris, tripped circuit box, checked the outlet for power with a meter, was good, Still nothing...not even the light.
Timer advances when set to timed dry but does nothing if set on auto dry. Is the machine dead, or is it possible that a new thermostat and/or thermal fuse can bring it back to life?
I have an ohm meter but I don't know exactly where to touch. Any reading that I get...I second guess the accuracy due to my lack of skill.
Any input or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Margs, At first, I thought you had an open thermal fuse, which would stop all power to the unit. Then you state that after you cleaned out the unit , it still wont run , but the timer will advance in the timed dry setting. Now I'm thinking you may have a loose or burnt connector at the terminal block, or line cord problem, since you have 220 volts at the outlet. *** Be careful with voltage checks you could hurt yourself *** Check for voltage at the terminal block(on the back of the dryer) : Across the two outside terminals,220 Volts AC. From the center terminal to each outside terminal, 120 Volts AC. Here's the part number for the thermal fuse kit, just in case. Part number: AP4242472
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First, let me thank you for replying! I tested the lines in the terminal block and got nothing. I re-checked the outlet just to make sure that I was doing it right. The meter set to 250V, the two outside terminals gave a reading that shot all the way across. Then, middle to outside terminals gave a reading 1/2 across. Re-checked at terminal block...nothing, from either. Could this be the problem? I can see the part pictured with the top open. Is that the terminal fuse, and can it be checked, too? It has two red wires connected to it, one on each side. Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Margs, At first, I thought you had an open thermal fuse, which would stop all power to the unit. Then you state that after you cleaned out the unit , it still wont run , but the timer will advance in the timed dry setting. Now I'm thinking you may have a loose or burnt connector at the terminal block, or line cord problem, since you have 220 volts at the outlet. *** Be careful with voltage checks you could hurt yourself *** Check for voltage at the terminal block(on the back of the dryer) : Across the two outside terminals,220 Volts AC. From the center terminal to each outside terminal, 120 Volts AC. Here's the part number for the thermal fuse kit, just in case. Part number: AP4242472
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Originally Posted by: margs First, let me thank you for replying! I tested the lines in the terminal block and got nothing. I re-checked the outlet just to make sure that I was doing it right. The meter set to 250V, the two outside terminals gave a reading that shot all the way across. Then, middle to outside terminals gave a reading 1/2 across. Re-checked at terminal block...nothing, from either. Could this be the problem?
I can see the part pictured with the top open. Is that the terminal fuse, and can it be checked, too? It has two red wires connected to it, one on each side. I did follow the instruction page for using a meter. The page with what components you can check on an electric dryer, it states that..."with appropriate wiring disconnected"...which wires are supposed to be disconnected?
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Originally Posted by: margs I did follow the instruction page for using a meter. The page with what components you can check on an electric dryer, it states that..."with appropriate wiring disconnected"...which wires are supposed to be disconnected? Margs, That's just a fancy way of saying "disconnect at least one wire off the component terminals, so you don't get a false reading. In your case remove one wire (or both,just remember where they were or mark them) and check from the empty terminal to the other terminal on the component for a closed circuit. Hope that helps. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Margs,
That's just a fancy way of saying "disconnect at least one wire off the component terminals, so you don't get a false reading.
In your case remove one wire (or both,just remember where they were or mark them) and check from the empty terminal to the other terminal on the component for a closed circuit.
Hope that helps.
:cool: :cool: :cool: You're talking about testing the thermal fuse, right? About the terminal block and the earlier post...do you think that it is the problem? Can it be fixed by replacing the part?
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Originally Posted by: margs You're talking about testing the thermal fuse, right? About the terminal block and the earlier post...do you think that it is the problem? Can it be fixed by replacing the part? Margs, Yes, I was discussing, explaining the tests for the thermal fuse and hi limit thermostat, or any component that has wires attached to it(timer contacts, switch contacts, motor contacts, etc.) Yes, I'm 99.9% sure, you need a new line cord per my previous post. With the cord plugged into the outlet and power is on. From the middle terminal to either outside terminal you should read 120 Volts AC From outside terminal to the other outside terminal, you should read 220 Volts AC. If you have proper voltage at the outlet, but no voltage at the terminal block, you have a bad line cord and no power to the dryer, so it won't start/run. Is this a better explanation ? :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Margs,
Yes,
I was discussing, explaining the tests for the thermal fuse and hi limit thermostat, or any component that has wires attached to it(timer contacts, switch contacts, motor contacts, etc.)
Yes, I'm 99.9% sure, you need a new line cord per my previous post.
With the cord plugged into the outlet and power is on.
From the middle terminal to either outside terminal you should read 120 Volts AC
From outside terminal to the other outside terminal, you should read 220 Volts AC.
If you have proper voltage at the outlet, but no voltage at the terminal block, you have a bad line cord and no power to the dryer, so it won't start/run.
Is this a better explanation ?
:cool: :cool: :cool: Oh my God...I thought I was supposed to disconnect power before checking. I feel really stupid but please don't give up on me. Okay, while unit is plugged in the terminal block and the outlet are both fine, meter gives a good reading for both. Back to square one. Next I'll check the thermal fuse and other components. I set meter to RX1 and zero'd the mark all the way to the right using the ohm knob. Is dryer plugged or unplugged while testing? I must sound like an idiot but its better to be safe than sorry.
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Originally Posted by: margs Oh my God...I thought I was supposed to disconnect power before checking. I feel really stupid but please don't give up on me.
Okay, while unit is plugged in the terminal block and the outlet are both fine, meter gives a good reading for both. Back to square one.
Next I'll check the thermal fuse and other components. I set meter to RX1 and zero'd the mark all the way to the right using the ohm knob. Is dryer plugged or unplugged while testing? I must sound like an idiot but its better to be safe than sorry. Margs, OK, So you've re checked the voltage at the terminal block and had 220 volts across the two outside terminals, and 120 volts from the center terminal to both outside terminals, Correct ? OK, Now the remainder of the circuit checks, will be made with NO voltage to the machine, UNPLUG the power cord from the outlet. Remember to remove at least one wire off of the component you test, so you don't get a false reading. and check the circuit. If the component is good (closed circuit) your meter needle will go all the way to the right side of the scale, if it does not move(open circuit) you have a bad component and will need to replace that part. Yes, it is best to be SAFE than SORRY, So don't worry about what things sound like, I don't want to get you hurt either .... :cool: :cool: :cool:
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I checked the all the wiring in the control panel with my meter and everything seems okay.
The wires at the light switch...starts with 1 white wire that leads to the component, then white wire and a pink wire on other side. So, from the side with both the pink and the white wire...I took off the white wire and tested it and got a good reading, and put it back on. Took the pink wire off and tested it but got nothing.
I think the pink wire leads to the cylinder light, but the light bulb doesn't work either. It failed along with the rest of the unit. So far, that was the only wire that gave no reading at all.
Did I do the test right? If so, could that pink wire cause this problem?
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