Here is your tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%202311817.pdf

[COLOR="Blue"]I opened the cover on the freezer side and the evaporator had heavy frost and ice build up.[/COLOR]
Yes this does sound like a defrost problem.
The coils have to be iced/frosted up to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

The board you ordered could be the problem but it could also be the heater or the defrost thermostat.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle (see the tech sheet) till the fans and compressor turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the board you ordered should fix the problem

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 25 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast as it is not automatically doing a defrost cycle.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Your freezer section is too warm.
Should be 0 to 5 degrees F

The fresh food should be 40 degrees F approx.

This could be why the ice maker is slow.

[COLOR="Blue"]I did not check the temperature of the defrost thermostat on the side of it discovered this on the old one later.[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.

[COLOR="Blue"]Could thid be caused by the control board or refrigerator thermostat?[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"]
How do you suggest I proceed. Both temperature settings are set to high.[/COLOR]

Is the unit/compressor cycling on/off or is it constantly on?

If it is cycling then it could be either the board or the thermostat.
I would bet on the thermostat.

You could check this by unplugging the unit and shorting the two wires that go to the thermostat together. Taping them up so they cannot short to anything else if you have to. Then plug it in and test it.
It should constantly and go down to the correct temperature or lower. If it does then replace the thermostat.
Make sure you monitor the temperatures as you could freeze everything in the fresh food side running it this way so just use this as a test.

It has been 24 hrs now temps are still the same on both freezer and refrigerator.
(I have already cleaned the coils under the unit. Ambient temperature is about 85 to 88 depending on time off day sometimes cooler when house ac is on.)

What do you suggest as a next step?

I believe the frost pattern is heavier on the bottom, the top of the evaporator coils are relatively frost free-this is from the last time I had it open- i have not opened since 48 hrs.