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I put a new Harper Wyman spark module on my gas cooktop and when I turn on a burner the spark comes on and ignites the burner but continues to spark. What shoul I look for now.
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Tommy,
- What brand cooktop is this? Viking?
- What was the reason to replace the spark module?
- Can you post all the numbers off the old module and the new module?
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vgrt360-4gss is a viking gas cook top, 36" 4 burner and 12" griddle. The spark module was bad (ie.. no spark) so I replaced it. Both old and new are Harper Wyman Model# 6540's. I labeld each of the 11 wires befor removal and checked twice to make sure they were each in the correct pen location.
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Tommy, A couple of things... 1. This is a re-ignition type module, meaning that if burner flame were to go out, the electrode igniter would sense it and the spark module would juice it up to try and re-ignite the gas. Cool feature, except it creates a few issues - burner cap has to be clean, igniter has to be clean. Also, reverse polarity would cause the spark module to continiously power up the igniters, which leads us to the second point. 2. I know you've double checked the wiring, but... let's say that the neutral and live wires got switched around. Both wires look the same, both are connected side by side. Is it possible? If this was the case, it would create reverse polarity, which will result in... well, what I said before. This is a relatively basic, although expensive, spark module (I hope you didn't buy it from Viking) - 4 leads in from the spark switches, 4 leads out to the 4 igniters, then ground, neutral, and live wires. Bottom line, make sure that: - all burner caps are clean and were properly re-assembled (I'm guessing you probably had to remove them to gain access to the spark module); - all 4 spark igniters are clean; - neutral and live wires are hooked up correctly. - 6540 spark module (for our forum visitors) Hope this helps. Let us know what you find. A 100th post already? :cool: I need a brewski!
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Mine kept sparking for a couple days. It turned out the back burner cap, one I rarely use, so it must have gotten bumped. It was not sitting completely on it's burning causing all the others to continue clicking. You could not tell by looking at it, it looked fine. I had re-adjusted it a few times and it finally made the correct fit. Good luck and I hope it was as easy as this and not a electrical problem. Best to you!
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Good job, kbarr.
This topic is becoming somewhat popular, so I'm going to include another common problem. It's not related to Tommy's specific question, but may be useful for people browsing this topic.
Problem: Cooktop igniters continuously click after a spillover or after someone had cleaned the cooktop.
Possible Cause: Water got onto the spark switches and shorted them out.
Solution: In most cases, all you have to do is unplug the cooktop for about 48 hours and let the water dry out. This will usually take care of the problem. In rare cases, you may have to replace one of the switches.
Hope this helps.
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Here is the update. I just replaced the spark module with an second new one with the same results. I checked the polarity on the wires and had them correct. I still reversed them just to make sure an got no spark at all when I turned on the gas knob. I removed all 4 igniters and cleaned a small amout of carbon off of them using 300 grit paper. I am not sure what you are talking about as far as the burner caps. My Viking has round disk (cast iorn) that sit on top of the burners. I moved, centered, turned, lifted, shook them with no resullts. I dont know if this helps but if I turn on all four burners the sparks do stop. When I shut 1 off the sparks begain again. Any more suggestions. Thanks Tommy
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I have had similar problems with my Garland. I dont know about Viking But mine has a ceramic insulator at thr base of each electrode & a fine crack in one will do the same thing. Can someone tell me where to find the 6540 module reasonable?
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I have the same problem with a viking stove. Did you come up with a solution?
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the igniter continues to spark until I un plug it.
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