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Won't drain,all hoses good, motor turns, can't tell if pump is bad. If I order the pump online here, it is a kit..do i also need to replace the check valve? Or is that included with the kit sold here?part # AP2616850
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I don’t work for APP so I can’t tell you about the kit but its unlikely (not impossible) that the pump is causing your problem post you model number and I will tell you what to check. Also is it not pumping at all or pumping out partially? Dishwasher Not Draining Repair Guide
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  I don’t work for APP so I can’t tell you about the kit but its unlikely (not impossible) that the pump is causing your problem post you model number and I will tell you what to check. Also is it not pumping at all or pumping out partially? Dishwasher Not Draining Repair Guide The motor is turning and sounds fine, the water is not pumping out the rince cycle water it looks like. Main drain pipe is clear When I disconnected under the DW nothing like a blockage came out, just left- over water that was being held in the machine that I didn't get out all the way. Model # GSD3735F01 SERIAL # TD9013468 GE NATULIS Thanks so much!
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In the back of the inside of your tub you should see a screen, remove it. Once removed you should see a check valve # 556 on your body parts breakdown. Often the rubber in the middle of this check valve will dissolve to the point that it can no longer block water. If this happens the pump will just pump the water back into the tub during pump out.
If that is not your problem the drain solenoid (#497 on the pump-motor parts breakdown) that attaches to the side of the pump could cause this problem as well. Disconnect power from washer then reach under the washer and attempt to press that solenoid down. It should press down easily and then spring back up if not replace it. Note that sometimes the timer will cause this part to go bad so you may have to replace it as well.
These are the two most likely parts that will cause your problem. Hope this helps!
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: applianceman In the back of the inside of your tub you should see a screen, remove it. Once removed you should see a check valve # 556 on your body parts breakdown. Often the rubber in the middle of this check valve will dissolve to the point that it can no longer block water. If this happens the pump will just pump the water back into the tub during pump out.
If that is not your problem the drain solenoid (#497 on the pump-motor parts breakdown) that attaches to the side of the pump could cause this problem as well. Disconnect power from washer then reach under the washer and attempt to press that solenoid down. It should press down easily and then spring back up if not replace it. Note that sometimes the timer will cause this part to go bad so you may have to replace it as well.
These are the two most likely parts that will cause your problem. Hope this helps! The drain solenoid springs back fine the check valve under the screen ..the rubber was fine I thought and sprung fine. there was a tiny bit of debris in there..one tiny piece in between the springs coil but I mean tiny, smallas a pinhead but hard. How do I know if the ?pump? that makes the check valve go up and down is working? any other ideas? is the solenoid spring supposed to spring back like "snap back" or just come back up without sticking because it doesn't "snap back" it just comes back up easily but not like a tightly wound spring...if that makes any sence.
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Before you go any further did you check to see if the drain was stopped up right where it hooks to the sink? This is a common place for a clog. If not remove the drain hose and make sure that’s clear.
The main thing about that check valve is that the rubber plunger should be big enough to stop up the hole in the top. Water pressure causes the plunger to lift up.
The solenoid should just come back up not snap up.
Start the washer and look under the dishwasher in a few minutes the first washer should finish and the solenoid should go down and pump the water out. If this doesn’t happen reach under there (don’t touch any wires) and press the solenoid down just as you did before. When you press the solenoid down the water should pump out.
While you are checking it pay attention to if the dishwasher sounds like its washing. Do you hear water being pumped inside the washer? If not this could indicate that the pump is bad although I don’t think I have ever seen one of these pumps that just wouldn’t pump strong enough.
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drains clear connections cleardrains to disposel
I hear it during wash cycle water is running in and i believe it washes and drains too otherwise the wash water and the rince water would both be in there causing it to run out and over the door ..right?..when it is in drain rince cycle it runs,water starts to go down when I open door I can see it do this briefly but then the water comes right back up into DW
I'll try the solenoid test within the hour
and yes the rubber plunger plugs the hole and shows no wear ereally..although it was alittle slimey...not bad tho
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No it wouldn’t overflow because there is a float that stops the water valve when the water gets too high.
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working fine now.. Dont know why thanks you saved me from insanity! I just wanted to add that thank God there are people like you. You saved me the cost of a new DW or a 250.00 part that I did not need. You do not know how very much I appreciate it, and my husband who works out of state says thank you too. God Bless !!!!
Oh seems I have had a leak left ( as you look at the DW),front door gasket baffle area..just below it? still leaks guess that will be next...would that be a door seal or the baffle? There are no suds or soap used in that last wash. or is the water level too high?, is the door locking tight enough?
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You’re very welcome!!
Because it was not pumping out you might want to use it a few times to see if it still leaks post back if it does.
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