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mamerchant  
#411 Posted : Thursday, May 28, 2009 10:33:16 AM(UTC)
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Or is the Heater & therm. Assy Part Number: AP4072797, a combination of the defrost heater and thermostat?
woodchuckie  
#412 Posted : Thursday, May 28, 2009 11:51:56 AM(UTC)
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Yes, that is both the heater and defrost thermostat.
mamerchant  
#413 Posted : Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:18:46 PM(UTC)
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when i turn the defrost timer one click and waited, the fan or the compressor did not stop (no sizzling noise). then after a while a turned it another click and still kept going. they just dont stop. so I finally called a pro to look at it. he tested everything out and confirmed the compressor and fan were not stopping even after he tried a new defrost timer and turned it a few times. he said the defrost heater was ok but the thermostat was probably bad. but he was confused about why the system would not stop after he turned the defrost timer.

then i told him about the maytag recall earlier this year regarding the relay switch. he told me that the guy who put it in probably rewired something wrong and that the thermostat probably blew out because of this bad rewiring. is that correct? or is it just the thermostat?
woodchuckie  
#414 Posted : Sunday, May 31, 2009 4:41:50 PM(UTC)
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You can bypass the defrost thermostat to see if it works then. The system will work without it. It prevents overheating of the defrost heater.

Most relay replacements are pretty straightforward and unless it involved more than the relay I don't see how it could be wired wrong. I would contact the previous repairman and tell them the problem.
djalexem  
#415 Posted : Tuesday, June 2, 2009 8:01:53 AM(UTC)
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Gene heres a picture of my freezer with the cover off. Is there any defrost components located here. Where would I find the timer or thermostat?
UserPostedImage
sumeetmagoon@gmail.com  
#416 Posted : Sunday, June 7, 2009 4:36:42 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
bohemian,

There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost" terminal on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.

If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.

If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.

If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.

- The part number for the main control board is AP3950129

- The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317

- The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407

Gene.


I have the following GE fridge: GSS25JEMBBB

I have frost buildup on the coils in the fridge. I changed the defrost heater (the old one was blown out), but that didn't solve the problem.

I am trying to figure out how to test the defrost timer, which for my model is on the main control board (please confirm). Can you please help me to identify the wire from the "defrost" terminal on the control board so I can test as described above? If you have any other helpful advice to help me with this problem, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

Sumeet
Gene  
#417 Posted : Monday, June 8, 2009 3:06:16 PM(UTC)
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Sumeet,

The defrost terminal on the control board is marked as "defrost". Perform this test and post the results.

Gene.
MEENag  
#418 Posted : Monday, June 15, 2009 9:11:23 PM(UTC)
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Another Freezer Good/Refrigerator bad problem.

Whirlpool ED25TEXHW02

This morning I noticed things didn't seem cool enough on the refrigerator side. I let it run for a couple of hours to see if it would improve, but the temp stayed in the upper 40's.
After reading posts on this site, I went about doing the checks.

First, I checked the diffuser. There was some cool air coming from it, but it was relatively low volume and didn't seem like it would be able to get the FF temp to the right level.
I reached into the diffuser from the freezer side and could feel that the diffuser was open, so I moved on.
The evaporator fan was on and was blowing very cold air up to the port for the diffuser.
I looked at the coils and they appeared to be covered with a uniform thin (~1mm) layer of ice (looked like ice, not frost to me).

I advanced the defrost timer and the defrost heater came on (and burned my finger when I touched it.....dumb, I know). I subsequently heard the sizzling sounds.

I waited and it went back into normal operating mode.

I checked the condenser coils and found them quite dirty, so I cleaned them. The fan next to the coils was operating fine.

I checked the return air vent (called the Louver-Cab in the parts diagram #4 Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL ED25TEXHW02 | AppliancePartsPros.com ) and it wasn't blocked ,but it might've been overnight, before my wife and I removed our lunches to take to work. What does this vent do? I assume it sends air back into the freezer section, but I don't see where it goes to on the freezer side.

After doing all of the checks (opening and closing the door many times) , the fridge temp was in the low 60's and was not going down.

I wanted to get the temp back to a safe level for the FF side, so I popped out the diffuser and left a big opening for the cold air to enter. The temp slowly, but steadily went down over several hours. Right now, the FF side is ~37 and the freezer is at 7. Both are still moving down, but very slowly.

Overnight, I plan to put the diffuser back in and see what the levels look like in the morning, but I wanted to see if anything stands out to one of the professionals here that I might be missing.

I seems to me like it could either a diffuser problem, or a combo of dirty condenser coils and a potentially blocked return air vent.

On top of this problem, my A/C stopped cooling yesterday, so the ambient temp in the house has gone from low 80s in the morning, to a high of 93 in the late afternoon, to 86 at around midnight. A/C guy found it was 6 lbs low on refrigerant, but couldn't find a leak anywhere after looking very thoroughly. He charged it back up and left, but it still ain't right. He replaced my evap. coil 1.5 months ago b/c of a rusted through pan, so I suspect it is related, but can't prove it.....but I digress.

Thanks for you help.
Jeff


Update: It looks like the simplest solution was the right one. All is well after cleaning the condenser coils.
km78717  
#419 Posted : Wednesday, June 17, 2009 6:22:16 PM(UTC)
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Gene,
I have a 6 year old Maytag (Model No.: MBB2254GEQ) bottom freezer refrigerator which has the same problem as discussed in this thread - Freezer works fine but the refrigerator is not working.
I took the back panel in the freezer off but could not see the defrost timer. I think it is in the refrigerator section above the temperature control. I did not attempt to take the control off because of the fear of breaking some other plastic parts. I also don't have Ohmmeter to check the defrost heater and thermostat.
I did unplug the refrigerator and defrosted it overnight. I turned it back on this afternoon and it seems to be working for time being. Can I keep it running to see if it builds up the frost again and develops the same problem as before? If the problem develops again, I will call in an authorized Maytag service person.
Thanks.

Kishor
nmwmsj  
#420 Posted : Wednesday, June 17, 2009 7:52:16 PM(UTC)
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i followed gene's diagnostic advice and it was right on. one of the heating coils was broken. i ordered a new set (with thermostat), installed it and the fridge is back to normal.. thanks gene for the help.
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