We have an 06ish Fisher Parkel drawer dishwasher DS603i in my RV that decided to quit working over winter. Powers up, no problem. But the drawer will not lock into place as normal. I can hold the lock button and the lock light turns sold red, but I do not hear the normal noise when the drawer locks. I assume this is a permissive for the dishwasher to run as well.

I assume the latch mechanism is bad, but not sure. Has anyone else had this problem and resolved it?

Ok, thank you. So just so I am clear, I am looking to ensure that the actuator is powered when the power button is depressed (that is when it locks) by putting a voltmeter on the removed plug prongs? So, if it is powered then the actuator is likely bad? Does it make sense that 2 actuators would fail at the same time?

If not that, I assume you mean a bad control board? Can you give me the part number for that in case I need it?

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by user Tuesday, June 18, 2024 4:29:29 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Ok, so I went ahead and ordered the actuators because they were a free return on Amazon. The company send me a 519328P control board instead. OMG. That is kinda funny. There is NO chance that more recent control boards would work with my dishwasher? I will still do the actuator test prior! Could it potentially damage the new control board to try?

William,

Well, you will never believe it. It's working again! For now .......

I disassembled per a video I found on the internet. Everything went just fine. My actuators appear to be an older model. I took one apart. It was a PITA. It didn't have a plug, it had a plastic case with clips. The motor came on (right side) when we flipped the breaker on. The left side did not extend normally, I was popping. I later found out this was because mine are adjustable and somehow the left was beyond the travel of the worm gear on the small motor. Because I disassembled the right one, I am not sure it was engaged or not. So I put the actuator back together and reinstalled both of them. The only thing I wasn't sure about is to what height to adjust the arm that attached to the side lid carriers. So I guessed a bit and put everything back together. It didn't work while apart, but when back together it worked normally. I ran a rise cycle to make sure the lid was closing tightly and everything functioned normally. I am assuming that the controller senses when the small motor amps start to change and determines full open or closed. I have no idea how the actuator screws backed out of the worm gear.

So here is my final questions. I now know the controller is all good. Should I proactively change the actuators (given their low cost) to ensure the same problem doesn't resurface? Are the newer actuators adjustable or fixed? It looks like the new actuator will work on my machine, but the wires are soldered directly to the motor in my case? I would need a pigtail plug to connect to power in my case. Do the newer actuators come with that?

Edited by user Monday, June 24, 2024 5:26:38 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified