Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2024(UTC) Posts: 0 
|
I have a Kenmore 106.74203402 fridge/freezer unit.
The fridge/freezer is not cooling at all.
The fans for the compressor and for the freezer seem to be working. I don't feel any air in the refrigerator section. (maybe the damper motor is bad?)
The compressor continuity is working for all 3 prongs. Also did a scratch test on the compressor where I scratched off some paint and tested continuity on the prongs to see if there's an internal short, no short appears which seems good.
The relay start device which houses the start relay and the run capacitor seemed to be OK (not 100% how to test it but I think the continuity was OK) I replaced the run capacitor and start relay anyways. I did not replace the start device however yet. (again I think they're ok)
I've replaced the thermistors in the fridge/freezer as well.
I don't think it makes sense to replace the damper yet.
thoughts on what else to test or could be wrong?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Moderators, APP Team, Registered Joined: 2/27/2024(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: TN Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 14 post(s)
|
Ryancg, thank you for your question. With the refrigerator door open and your hand near the damper area, does air start to come through when the freezer door is open? If it does, it is very likely that the evaporator is blocked up with ice due to a defrost failure. If this is the case, the defrost heater WPW10140847 would need to be tested for resistance and the defrost bi-metal WP2321800 tested for continuity after unplugging the appliance power cord. The defrost heater should measure between 30 to 42 Ohms of resistance and the bi-metal should measure continuity from the pink wire to the brown wire at the wire harness connection. If either of these parts fail testing, the specific part would need to be replaced. However, if both pass testing, the control board WP2304146 would be the cause of failure. Unfortunately, this control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2024(UTC) Posts: 0
|
Originally Posted by: WilliamM/APP Team  Ryancg, thank you for your question. With the refrigerator door open and your hand near the damper area, does air start to come through when the freezer door is open? If it does, it is very likely that the evaporator is blocked up with ice due to a defrost failure. If this is the case, the defrost heater WPW10140847 would need to be tested for resistance and the defrost bi-metal WP2321800 tested for continuity after unplugging the appliance power cord. The defrost heater should measure between 30 to 42 Ohms of resistance and the bi-metal should measure continuity from the pink wire to the brown wire at the wire harness connection. If either of these parts fail testing, the specific part would need to be replaced. However, if both pass testing, the control board WP2304146 would be the cause of failure. Unfortunately, this control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. Thank you for your response! No there is no air coming from the fridge area when I open the freezer door and see the freezer fan moving. The damper might be dead? But if the damper is closed, would that cause the freezer to not cool? The refrigerator does not have any ice build up as the fridge was turned off for a day and when turned on, neither the fridge or freezer compartments cooled. The freezer fan works and the compressor itself when left on for an hour feels slightly warm to the touch but I am not sure if the compressor is kicking in, as I never hear any click in the relay. I suspect a few issues (note I am very unfamiliar with this technology): 1. compressor needs recharging - but if it needs recharging, doesn't that mean there is a leak somewhere? 2. compressor needs a new start device/relay/run capacitor. I did try to replace the run capacitor and relay but not the start device. Maybe the start device is malfunctioning or the replacement run capacitor or replacement relay are not the right parts (even though i'm sure they are based on model numbers) 3. thermistors in the fridge/freezer. I replaced both and no change. 4. damper motor. But I think this is unlikely as I thought this is only used to cool the fridge, while the freezer currently is not cooling. 5. defrost thermostat - I did not replace this, but I think this would not be the issue as the freezer nor fridge cools at all. Could this really be a part that needs replacing? 6. controller boards. maybe some board is malfunctioning? I looked at a few boards (the ones in the fridge) and they look in great condition. capacitors appear to be in good condition, no leaks and no burn marks anywhere. (still could be some internal failure but initial visual inspection shows no signs of issues.) Edited by user Tuesday, May 28, 2024 11:32:33 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Moderators, APP Team, Registered Joined: 2/27/2024(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: TN Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 14 post(s)
|
Based on the information provided, the sealed system would have an issue. The previous test is used to identify if the return vent or damper is blocked when the freezer is cooling some but not cooling to the necessary temperature. Edited by user Tuesday, May 28, 2024 1:30:03 PM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2024(UTC) Posts: 0
|
Originally Posted by: WilliamM/APP Team Based on the information provided, the sealed system would have an issue. The previous test is used to identify if the return vent or damper is blocked when the freezer is cooling some but not cooling to the necessary temperature. Yes I suspect as well based on what you've said on my reports. Either something with the start device or the compressor/sealed system, or potentially the boards? (not sure if the boards tell the compressor relay to turn on?) Is there any basic test I can do to force the compressor to be in the on state? This would then tell me if the closed loop system has a leak or defective compressor. If this test is possible, does it matter if the relay/run capacitor are working? (let's assume the worst even with the new parts)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Moderators, APP Team, Registered Joined: 2/27/2024(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: TN Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 14 post(s)
|
As the fans are running, the compressor can be tested for voltage reaching the start device. If there is voltage present, the failure would be in the sealed system. This could be a compressor failure, a freon issue, etc..
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2024(UTC) Posts: 0
|
Originally Posted by: WilliamM/APP Team As the fans are running, the compressor can be tested for voltage reaching the start device. If there is voltage present, the failure would be in the sealed system. This could be a compressor failure, a freon issue, etc.. perfect, do you have a guide/youtube that you'd recommend that would show examples of how to do that in the way you're thinking?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Moderators, APP Team, Registered Joined: 2/27/2024(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: TN Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 14 post(s)
|
Unfortunately, we do not have a how-to video for this at the time. However, with a meter, one probe would go into one wire while the other meter probe would go into the other wire at the start device. If the condenser fan and evaporator fan are operating, the start device should be receiving AC voltage. If the voltage is the same as what is on the compressor rating tag, then the sealed system has a failure.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2024(UTC) Posts: 0
|
looks like there was a micro leak in the closed system which caused moisture to get into the compressor. Looks like we'll be parting the fridge out.
Thank you for all your tips!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
