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Our 7.5 year old Whirlpool Gold made a pop(according to my wife) when heating a cup of water yesterday. The clock required a reset but the circuit breaker did not trip. Now it simply does not heat. I've read some of the threads that suggest it's one of three things: An open door switch contact, the rectifier or the magnetron. If I measure continuity on the rectifier or the magnetron, then those parts need replacement. Does anyone have any additional information about or experience with this model? Is there a common threshold where I should replace rather than repair? Here is the part kit: http://shared.whirlpoolc...20List%20-%208184153.pdf Frank
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Does it make any noise? Do the inner light, the fan and the turntable go "on" when you push the Start button? Does the timer count down?
Gene.
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Yes, the fan, lights, turntable, timer, all go on. It sounds and looks operational, but doesn't add one degree of heat to water. Thanks for your questions.
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Remove the top grille and open the control panel. Remove the wires from the high voltage transformer primary windings and check for 120VAC between them while the control calls for heat and the door is closed. Be careful not to electrocute yourself. If there is no proper voltage then the control board has to be replaced. If there is 120VAC then most likely the magnetron has gone bad. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GT4185SKS0 | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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I did my diagnostics this weekend.
I'm still alive, so I passed that test. My wife even checked in a few times, from a distance.
Here's what I found:
1) Control Panel delivers 120v to the transformer primaries (disconnected) when I pressed in commands to boil a cup of water.
2) Magnetron. With unit unplugged, I tested the magnetron and rectifier for continuity. Magnetron shows continuity between filaments (or 0.1 ohms resistance) and infinite from filament to chassis.
3) Rectifier. With unit unplugged, rectifier show infinite resistance in both directions. My multimeter also has a diode check, and that showed the same infinite value in both directions. This not a 9v multimeter but one that uses two 367 watch batteries, and I'm not certain if that makes a difference at this point.
I didn't check the capacitor, the switch interlocks, or any relays.
My hunch is the problem is with the rectifier, but the rectifier showing infinite resistance both ways throws me off. The manual mentions a 9v battery test but I didn't have a resistor to connect with the battery. I'll add that my wife claims she noticed a burning smell the first time she noticed the unit did not work properly. What would you do next?
Magnetron part numbers are LG-2M246-050GF, P01E-158058.
Rectifier does not appear to be listed in the above part diagram. Part number on unit is HVR-1x 1308.
Frank
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Frank, You do not need an additional resistor to check the diode. You can test the diode using the instructions from one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros...19868-diode-testing.htmlIf the diode will pass this test then most likely the magnetron is the culprit. Even if the magnetron passed the continuity test it still can be bad and it can produce a burning smell. - The part number for the diode is AP4352540 - The part number for the magnetron is AP3135931Gene.
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I read voltages in both directions using a 9v battery with voltmeter but then realized that I had not disconnected the anode side. After I disconnected the anode side the diode read 6v in one direction and no voltage the other way. Seems like the rectifier checks out OK.
That leaves the magnetron.
Thanks
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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