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Thanks to this thread and forum I followed the steps and repaired my own board. Here's what I did with some photos. My model is SC302ZS/01 double oven Sorry looks like this forum won't let me add photos. REMOVE FACEPLATE Undo two screws on the underside of the faceplate. It will then tilt/lift up. Label the two white wire bundles that attach to the control panel faceplate "Control Panel Left" and "Control Panel Right" then disconnect. Also disconnect the black wires from it. Set control panel aside. You should now see this. IMG]http://********************.us/a/img252/2271/img1287t.jpg[/IMG] REMOVE DISPLAY Undo the three screws that keep the display on and the it will tilt forward with the wires attached to the back. REPLACE THREE CAPACITORS http://********************.us/a/img694/1964/img1289j.jpgLabel the three wire harnesses then remove. I had to basically break the little ledge tab that was holding the wire connector in place. No big deal they just push back on fine afterwards. Remove the circuit board from the plastic frame by gently lifting up on the two tabs on the edge holding the board in place. Gently tilt up the glass display to access the capacitor that is covered. You will need a little force to lift it up since there is a foam pad on the back of the display. Just pry it up enough to get to the back of that third cap thats hidden. I replaced three capacitors. An earlier post had one of the voltage values incorrect so double check yours. I bought two 470uF 35 volt 105C caps and one 68uF 35 volt 105C from Mouser.com because my local store didn't have them all. I used some desolder wire to soak up the old solder and replaced the caps. Turned the circuit breaker back on and it worked. Thanks for this forum and thread!!!! Saved $400 over a new board (although I did treat myself to a new $85 Weller soldering Iron from Amazon) If you want to remove the door to replace a light, heating element, or to clean, just flick up these tabs to lock the door hinges into open and then tilt the door up 45 degrees and pull out hinges. Both side tabs must be engaged keeping the hinges from moving. Good luck all.
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Joined: 9/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 11
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+1 on the "worked like a charm" counter!!
After too many years peering at an almost unreadable display, I finally bit the bullet and replaced the capacitors - powered back on, and my display is working as well as it always did, prior to having the problem. Took about 20 minutes from start to finish (would be much quicker if I were to do it again).
As an aside, my oven is quite old (circa 2000) and the construction of the display board prevented replacing one of the two larger capacitors (the underside part of the legs were covered by the board-mounted LED "screen") so I could only swap a couple of the components. But this was obviously sufficient to correct the issue.
Given the original purchase price of the double oven unit, I still can't believe that Thermador did this! The cost difference between the two types of capacitors is probably only a few dimes. I can't work out if it's incompetence or indifference - either way, this is the last Thermador appliance that I'll ever buy.
Thanks and much kudos to Goober - what a great fix!
Dave
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Originally Posted by: Goober Success !! First of all I am in automotive electronics...and have design experience with vaccuum flourescent displays. Our new double oven display got dimmer and dimmer over 2-3 years....the replacement board was $250 - with no promise it wouldn't do the same thing 2 years from now.... Dim display is a function of the drive voltages to it. A transformer creates these - and the DC voltage is stabalized by capacitors. The capacitors are only rated to 105 C - which means over time the heat will reduce the capacitors capacitance...lowering the drive voltage and diming the display. Turn off the power - remove the keyboard panel and metal plate it attaches to. Remove the board attached to the metal plate (not the keyboard/board). Replace 3 capacitors (2 x 470 uf 35V, and one 68 uf 35v....highest temp you can get is 125 C. Display works like a charm...for $10 in parts from radio shack... best is WHEN the display gets dim...its a straightforward fix.... I was actually thinking of puting in a computer fan to keep the top of the oven cooler... but thats another day. I have a Thermador wall oven model# SMW272Y with same diplay problem. Called Thermador and they told me that the oven is old, and parts are no longer availabe. They said I need to the display and the circuit board to CGI (866-737-2244) for repair. I found your post and ordered the capacitors from E_B_A_Y for less than $8. The problem fixed (display works normally) after I replaced the capacitors. Thanks for the instruction.
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Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I have a Thermador double oven model S302TB. The oven is working fine. When I select bake or broil and enter a temperature, you can't see any lights display. What part is need for this issue? I've been told various things......control board, display board, touch panel????
Thank you for any advice! Robin
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Joined: 2/28/2023(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: CA
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Originally Posted by: Guest I have a Thermador double oven model S302TB. The oven is working fine. When I select bake or broil and enter a temperature, you can't see any lights display. What part is need for this issue? I've been told various things......control board, display board, touch panel????
Thank you for any advice! Robin It's been a while, so maybe you're not monitoring this anymore, but the answer to your question is in earlier replies to this topic. Capacitors need to be replaced on the display board.
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Joined: 2/28/2023(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: CA
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I recently performed the 3-capacitor replacement fix for our 1999 Thermador double oven. The display had gotten so dim that it was basically invisible. The fix brought back the display, but it remains quite dim. I did see a fourth cap on the other end of the board from the grouping of 3 discussed in this topic, which I did not yet replace. I may go ahead and do that one as well.
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