Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2017(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
If I turn the timer knob away from OFF but do not push the start button the dryer gets very hot but does not spin and the timer also does not move. It does this with the door open or closed and will heat the room if the door is open. The heat will only go off when the timer knob is manually moved to OFF. Is this normal? If START is pushed the dryer spins, the timer winds down, and the dryer works normally. Opening the door stops the spin and timer but not the heat. We have had the dryer for over 15 years and have never noticed this Heat ON - No Spin - Timer ON state.
I would like to look at a wiring diagram of the dryer to see what component failure could cause these symptoms. I wonder if there is a defective switch or relay that is supposed to turn the heat off if the motor is not powered. Or, is the timer defective to not continue to turn to OFF if the door is opened.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781   Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Sounds as if your heating element is shorted out against the wall of the heating can or a wire is shorted out l r ading away from the heater.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
As for wiring diagram here is the basics
The heating element receices 240v to operate
One leg (L1 120v) comes from the timer
The second leg L2 120v comes from the centrifugal swith on the drive motor and only engages when the motor is spinning.
Now it may be also that the switch on the motor is stuck closed besides what i previously stated
In order to complete the circuit either a part is shorted giving the heating element 120v , enough to heat it up or the centrifugal switch is stuck sending 240v to heating element (which i doubt because with no air flow the thermostat would burn out)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2017(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: brobriffin  As for wiring diagram here is the basics
The heating element receices 240v to operate
One leg (L1 120v) comes from the timer
The second leg L2 120v comes from the centrifugal swith on the drive motor and only engages when the motor is spinning.
Now it may be also that the switch on the motor is stuck closed besides what i previously stated
In order to complete the circuit either a part is shorted giving the heating element 120v , enough to heat it up or the centrifugal switch is stuck sending 240v to heating element (which i doubt because with no air flow the thermostat would burn out) Thanks. I think it is the broken heater wire touching the chassis. A further symptom is insufficient heat when drying so the coil may be getting 120V and not 240V. BTW, the centrifigal switch sounds like a good idea but i do not see it in the parts list. Does it have another name or is it part of the motor? When you said "thermostat burnout" did you mean "open" or "defective"?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/13/2014(UTC) Posts: 781 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
-If your heating element wire is broken and touching the heater casing (chamber) then that is your cause. Replacing the element will solve your issue. If you have one already great, if not you can get it right here at APP.com Search online for how-to videos its not a hard repair. Whirlpool WPY303404 Heater Assembly Complete - AppliancePartsPros.comThere is a restring kit available but not an easy task and you may find you have some broken insulators or some may break during installation, which would need to be replaced as well. As for your other questions; 1. The centrifugal switch on the motor is replaceable but I have never found it sold as a separate part. I do not believe that is your problem though. 2. The reference to thermostat burning out - the high limit thermostat on the heater case (chamber) is basically a non-resetting fuse. When it burns out that means the fusible link inside has melted and will no longer allow power to the heating element. This isn't your case either. Please let us know the outcome of your repair.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2017(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Checked the voltage and current (clip on ammeter) on the two wires, A and B, going to the heater. With timer on but start not pushed, A is 120V, 25A and B is 0V, OA. With timer on but start pushed, A is 120V, 25A and B is 120V, OA. This confirms your suspicions that the heater wire is broken and touching the heater case making a 125V circuit independent of the centrifugal switch. I have order the complete heater wire and case and will put it in Wednesday. I am an electrical engineer and appreciate the information you gave me; I would have not guessed that the heater wire was hitting the case. The symptoms depend on where along the heater it is hitting the case. If it was closer to either terminal it would have blown the high-limit thermostat or the house circuit breaker.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
