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talked to g.e. tag team. they think the plasic that the switch plugs into is contracting and causing the switch to move away from the door enough to close the contacts. they have a part no. to repair. part no. wr2x8905. order two. these are self adhesive strips that attach to the actuator of the switch. they advise putting two strips on. they also say put a little glue on switch actuator to be sure the strips stay in place. wr2x8905 is the original g.e. part no. hope this solves the problem.
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Scott you the man. I really appreciate it. Ill update my findings but it happened so randomly I don't know if or when it'll happen again. Rally really appreciate this
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Originally Posted by: scott5495  i will contact g.e. technical assistance on your behalf monday. they may already know about the problem. i did not find a service bulletin on it. Did you ever get any help from tech support? I'm have the exact same issues. Unplugged it and problem went away for about 48 hrs.
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ge thinks the plastic mullion that the switch is in is conracting and causing the switch to move away from the door and causing the contacts in the switch to close and turn the lite on. they recommend part no. wr2x8905. order 2. these are adhesive strips that attach to the switch plunger. they recommend adding a little super glue to the plunger to help secure. hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by: scott5495 they recommend part no. wr2x8905. order 2. these are adhesive strips that attach to the switch plunger. Hi Scott, I'm also experiencing the same light-assembly-running-hot issue in my GE Profile side-by-side fridge. I've pulled the bulbs from my fridge in the meantime, but I'd like to try fixing the issue. When I search for GE part number WR2X8905 all I can find is a "vacuum break" which does not appear to have anything to do with adhesive strips. If possible, can you link directly to the adhesive strips you mentioned? Thanks
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scott5495 has not been on his site for several months so i will try and help.
Looks like the problem he is referring to is that the door switch does not close all the time so the light stays on when the door is closed.
I do not know the GE part that he is referring to.
You could try calling GE.
If you can figure out what thickness has to be added to the switch activator then you should be able to use something else.
The little felt buttons they use to keep cabinet doors from being noisy when they close or the self stick pads they use on the bottom of chair legs etc. may work.
If the light is going off when the door is closed then you have a different problem.
Perhaps you could get a LED bulb that you could use. They do not give off heat.
You would need one that is like a Xmas tree (a stalk with LED's around it).
Many of them just have LED's at the end but I think these would be too directional in a fridge. Would give light like a spot light. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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In the last couple of weeks my GE side by side has had this problem. The refrig side is warm. I notice the top light is off and warm but the lower light is on. I adjust the temp, turn on turbo cool. Check again and the light is on and seems to be cooling. The light switch seems fine as it operates both lights. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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In the last couple of weeks my GE side by side has had this problem. The refrig side is warm. I notice the top light is off and warm but the lower light is on. I adjust the temp, turn on turbo cool. Check again and the light is on and seems to be cooling. The light switch seems fine as it operates both lights. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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I'm not sure I fully understand what's going on. What exactly is happening with the upper light? Is it on when you open the door, and does it only operate when you press the light switch? I will be glad to help just need a few more details.
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Thanks
The refrigerator side warms up. The top light was off and warm around the fixture housing. The lower light was on. Which would eliminate the the switch being bad. I thought the top bulb might have been bad. I had the temp set to 37 but showed to be 40. I adjusted the temp down. When checking to see if it was cooling, the top bulb was working again area around it had cooled off. The freezer side seems to be fine. I was wondering if a sensor could be bad.
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