I have additional information. I disconnected the start relay and run capacitor from the compressor. I tested the compressor for continuity. With the upper 2 posts connected: 10.6 Ohms; with upper left and lower post connected: 3.6 Ohms; with upper right and lower post connected: 7.2 Ohms. A website suggested the values should read 10, 6, 4. Are my reading within specs? Next, I am doing research on how to test the refrigerator run capacitor and the start relay. I'll report my findings.

jzannini, Let's see if we can make this a little simpler. Testing a capacitor isn't too difficult, disconnect the wires, place a screwdriver shaft across the terminals or wires to discharge it. place your meter leads across the two terminals/wires. the meter should deflect towards a "close" circuit then drop back to an "open" circuit. you probably wont need a capacitor.
Compressor test :
Disconnect power to unit. Discharge capacitor. Remove leads from compressor terminals. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale. Check for resistance between Terminals “S” and “C” and Terminals “R” and “C”. If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.
Grounding test : Disconnect power to refrigerator. Discharge capacitor. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and the other probe to each compressor terminal. If a reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced.
Overload test : Disconnect power to the refrigerator. Remove relay cover and pull relay off compressor. Pull overload protector off compressor common terminal. With ohmmeter, check resistance between male terminal and female receptacle of compressor common terminal. At room temperature,
overload protector should have less than 1 ohm resistance. An open
overload protector will have infinite resistance.
PTC relay : With power off, check resistance across terminals 2 and 3:
Normal = 3 to 12 ohms. Shorted = 0 ohms. Open = Infinity.
One question we didn't seem to see mentioned. When you had the freezer rear wall off, did the evaporator coil have a complete and even frost pattern on all the coils, or were there areas of no frost on the coils ? An uneven or blamk areas on the coil would indicate an inefficient compressor or a restiction in the sealed system.

Zanninin, yes, we pretty much concur. Hopefully you have a garage refrigerator or access to one. There's no use going further. You need to decide if you want to replace the refrigerator, or have a refrigeration tech come in and repair the sealed system of your present unit. Good Luck,

John, You're Very Welcome !!!! We'll be here if you need us. Good Luck