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Tsimeur  
#21 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 7:13:38 AM(UTC)
Tsimeur

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I have the same issue with the freezer always defrosting. My ice defrosted and actually leaked water down the door and the water ran down the wire that connects by the bottom hinge of the freezer door (I think this is the wire that connects the dispenser to the main control board). The water/ice selector panel has now lost power. I've replaced the water/ice selector panel in the front of the freezer door guessing it would fix it, but no luck.

I'm still having the problem with the freezer constantly defrosting and frig warm and still have no water/ice depenser.

Reading this advice here, do you think spending $135 on a new control board would fix both issues?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

General Electric GSS25TSRDSS
mgueths  
#22 Posted : Tuesday, January 18, 2011 8:13:00 PM(UTC)
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Did you pull the board off to see if a solder joint was blown? Look on the back of the board and see if a solder joint looks burnt with some solder missing, should be on one of the relays. The relays are the square black boxes on the front. If there is a "burnt" solder joint, try re-soldering first before you spend the $135.00. The worst thing that could happen is that you wind up purchasing a new board.

I had the same issue and re-soldered the "burnt" joint, plugged it back in and PRESTO! The compressor came to life.
Kebwizrd  
#23 Posted : Friday, April 5, 2013 10:25:02 AM(UTC)
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:) :) :) Did some web searching yesterday and found this thread. Well as it turns out my fridge had exactly the same problem. It died last monday night. We were all set to buy a new refridgerator as this one is almost 11 years old. Came home last night and pulled the control board and there it was, the burn spot on the back of the board, the solder had actually seperated from the connection. Soldered it back, replaced the board and its been running and making ice ever since. Will give it a few days to make sure the problem is resolved. Good to have this forum. Saved me the cost of a service call or least the cost of a new board. You guys at Appliance Parts Pro rock. I have actually order from you before for a different problem and was able to resolve that problem also. Thanks again....
rb1184  
#24 Posted : Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:14:30 AM(UTC)
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I got a side by side GE fridge that's got ice on the back wall of freezer I removed the panel and thawed it with a hair dryer and it worked just as abadfish66 had said it would my question is could it be anything else timer or something someone told me that there could be other causes
BabaTaro12  
#25 Posted : Monday, February 8, 2016 8:03:16 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: abadfish66 Go to Quoted Post
Definatly sounds like the compressor relay on the board has a bad solder connection. .. you will most likely see a burn mark behind the biggest relay on the board. usually you can just resolder this and it will be fine, or you will need to replace the board.


I had the same problem (with model GSS25VFPAWW side-by-side), except that I called a repairman first, and he found the burn spot on the control board. He replaced the board. That was just the beginning of my problems.

I hope you can help, 'cuz we're out of ideas.

After replacing the board, it got cold, but not cold enough. Within a few hours, both refrigerator light bulbs burned out. Replacement bulbs have been fine. Compressor running, fans running. It turned out that the air damper stayed closed all the time, so I propped it open. Repairman replaced the evaporator fan, thinking that it may not be pulling hard enough, but he had the one that did not include the sensor, so he spliced the sensor back into the new fan assembly.

I don't think it got colder.

I asked him to replace the sensors. He had only one, so he ordered a couple. By three days later, they still weren't in, so he replaced the one in the refrigerator.

It got colder. Much colder, although not cold enough. I tried un-propping the air damper. It closed itself, then remained closed, so I propped it open again.

Current status is that it runs, and gets pretty cold.
-- I have all frozen food in the bottom half of the freezer, which keeps them frozen. It does not get cold enough to hold ice cream.
-- If the air damper is un-propped, the freezer actually gets cold enough throughout.
-- I have milk and other things that really need to be cold in the bottom half of the refrigerator. Milk seems to be very close to cold enough there. Top half is merely cool.
-- Air damper stays shut if left to itself.

-- I should note that:
1. Everything seems to work. The compressor gets cold, the compressor fan is running, the evaporator fan is running.
2. Before these problems, I had both the freezer and the refrigerator temp controls at '1', now they are all the way up as far as possible.
3. The air damper remains propped open. As far as I can tell, it no longer has the capability of opening itself.
4. My personal feeling is that everything on the refrigerator side blew out. I wish I knew why.
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