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Debma  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 25, 2016 11:09:49 PM(UTC)
Debma

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My freezer is working, but the fridge is not staying cold. It has been making noises like a motor trying to start and then stops, for a while. It did this about 2 years ago and someone changed the evaporator motor and it has been working until the noise started again recently. Just yesterday the food compartment stopped cooling and the back of the freezer was all ice. I opened the back of the freezer, removed a piece of foam from the drain and defrosted the frozen coils. After it was defrosted it started to cool again, but it only goes down to about 50 degrees. I tried manually defrosting it by pressing the light on and off 5 times and the heater coil was heating. Now the motor keeps turning on and off and not cooling very well. I read in one of the forums that if the defroster works that it is the control board that needs to be replaced. I wanted to know if the two problems are related and if the control board would still fix the problem. Is there a way to test the board or is there something else I need to test? Thanks for any help I can get and for this forum.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 27, 2016 3:34:28 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 25352649304 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Sears parts has actual part breakdowns but they do not share these with other vendors.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

You may have more than one problem but you have to fix one before moving on.

I am assuming that the evaporator coils were frosted/iced over to yhe point that the fan could not pull air through them and that is why you forced a defrost cycle.

Since the heater came on when you forced the defrost the defrost board is bad because it is not automatically defrosting.

Note that it also controls the fan and the damper so replacing it might fix everything.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Debma  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, January 27, 2016 7:01:46 AM(UTC)
Debma

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Thank you, I did order the board as well as the thermostat($10) and motor (just in case, the price is at least a third of what it was last time). I wanted a professional opinion that this board controlled all issues. I'm hoping it will solve the problems. I wasn't quite sure I understood the way the thermostat worked, if it made the defroster come on or not, but for the price I ordered it just in case. I thought I was going to have to replace the fridge, but now I'm more confident it could be fixed. Thank you so much for your time.
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, January 27, 2016 7:32:49 AM(UTC)
denman

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FYI. The defrost thermostat's function is to prevent too much heat during a defrost cycle.
It is wired in series with the defrost heater.
It opens just above freezing and re-closes when frozen again.
The defrost cycle is a fixed time usually 30 minutes.
But lets say all the ice has melted off the evaporator coils after 20 minutes then thermostat opens.
This kills power to the heater and the defrost cycle continues for another 10 minutes but the heater is off.

One thing to note about them is that if they are deformed/bulged they should be replaced as water has seeped into them.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Debma  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, January 27, 2016 11:21:10 AM(UTC)
Debma

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Thank you for that explanation, it is a great description of the thermostat function. I couldn't seem to find that anywhere. I did find where someone showed a picture of the thermostat bulging and mine did not look like that.

I should be getting the control panel in tomorrow and hopefully I'll put it in without a problem and everything will be fine. Thanks again.
Debma  
#6 Posted : Friday, February 26, 2016 12:53:56 PM(UTC)
Debma

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Posts: 5

I received the control panel and replaced it. I had a little trouble attaching to the damper controls (the wiring was different, but found a video that explained it). The first time it did not connect all the way and the damper door kept opening and closing. After I got it connected correctly and forced it to defrost, it seemed to work fine. It's been about a month and everything still seems to be working great and the temperature seems to be staying in the safe zone on the thermometer. Thanks again for all your help and information.
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