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LauraLee76  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 5, 2016 9:43:34 AM(UTC)
LauraLee76

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/5/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2

Currently having an issue with my KitchenAid Superba washing machine (Model# KAWS850GT1).

Before I explain, I do want to preemptively state that my "medium or large loads" are not huge, nor are they loaded with jeans/sweaters/towels - these were just your average, every day loads.

About a month ago my washing machine started having occasional issues with the spin cycle. With medium or large loads it would sometimes not spin. I would then break the load in half and do a separate rinse and spin cycle for each half (which would then work fine). The size of load appeared to have no impact on the washer being able to agitate - that function seemed to work just fine.

With the Christmas season a month away we were a little short on cash so I decided the issue was something I could work around and did not look into getting it repaired at that time. The occurrence of the issue slowly started to increase as the month went on. On Christmas Eve it "died". It will now only fill with water and then sit there, no longer agitating, no spining or draining, just a fried/burning smell.

My husband did some online research and decided it might be the motor coupler so, after bailing the water out of it by hand (is there any better way to drain a washing machine that won't drain on its own?), my husband and I took the washing machine apart. While my husband thought the coupler might be a bit loose, it otherwise looked fine. We did find what appeared to be a small pile of brake dust, leading us to believe it could be the clutch ( a realization that didn't happen until after we had put the washing machine back together again).

So my question is...is there a chance that I did damage to the actual motor by continuing to use my washing machine with a weak clutch? I don't want to spend $40 on a new clutch if the motor is already bad. Is there any way to tell if the motor is bad?

Thank you for any info or help you can offer!
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sidfink43  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2016 5:36:34 PM(UTC)
sidfink43

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699

Okay, a couple of things here. First of all it is highly unlikely you have done any damage to the machine by running it. Can't really happen. Second, we know it is not the coupling since in that case the machine would continue to operate and drain, or if not make some horrendous racket as the broken coupling would bang around. Third, it is not the clutch lining as that would not keep it from agitating and it is not the brakes sticking as it would still agitate. Fourth, assuming you checked and nothing is blocking the pump that is not the problem.

So the good news is that the most likely problem is the lid switch, and an easy test is to by-pass it with an insulated wire. If the machine now spins, replace the lid switch and you are all set. If that is not the solution you are looking at the timer and you can replace it. If you buy the timer from this site and it is not the problem you can return it.

Anyway, let us know how things turn out.
LauraLee76  
#3 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2016 8:48:53 AM(UTC)
LauraLee76

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/5/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thank you for your response! We tested the lid switch and that appears to be fine. We did notice a low hum whenever the washing machine was turned on with the lid switch engaged. We also checked the pump for any blockage but it is clear. So, to recap, our washer issues started with it having a hard time spinning anything beyond a light load (but agitating and draining fine) and has now progressed to not agitating, spinning, or draining, just filling with water then having low hum along with a burning smell. Any ideas? Close to scraping it and buying a new washer...though I would rather not.
sidfink43  
#4 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2016 10:00:28 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699

Well darn, the lid switch would have been an easy repair. You are now looking at either the timer, motor, motor switch or least likely the capacitor. I think the timer is the most likely, so if you want to try that you can order from this site and return it if it does not fix the problem.

Also, if you want to replace it do so with a nice basic, no frills, no electronics top loader which is on sale in many places this time of year.
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