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lehughes5472  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 2, 2013 10:26:18 AM(UTC)
lehughes5472

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I was having a problem with the refrigerator staying cool enough a few months ago so I replaced the adaptive control and it seemed to work much better. However I have since had a problem with ice melting and subsequently refreezing in the ice maker. The refrigerator also runs much colder even though the freezer is set at 4 and the refrigerator is at 3 1/2. Any ideas on what to check?
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 2, 2013 12:11:16 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: lehughes5472 Go to Quoted Post
I was having a problem with the refrigerator staying cool enough a few months ago so I replaced the adaptive control and it seemed to work much better. However I have since had a problem with ice melting and subsequently refreezing in the ice maker. The refrigerator also runs much colder even though the freezer is set at 4 and the refrigerator is at 3 1/2. Any ideas on what to check?


Lehughes, As for the temperature issue, reset both controls to the recomended settings and allow refrigerator to run 24 hours, before making any adjustments. then wait 24 hours between each re set. As long as you're sure you didn't disturb the "auto damper" assembly or the temperature control temp bulb, you should be fine after one or two adjustments.
To check the ice maker, you'll need a 3 or 4 inch length of 14 gauge, insulated wire. Remove the ice bin, remove the white plastic over from the front of the ice maker, and tape the freezer door light switched "closed". There are several labelled "holes" in the control module panel. You'll find the "H" and "T" openings at the 4 and 5 o'clock positions on the face of the module. "strip" approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation from both ends of the wire. insert the ends into the "T" and "H" openings, and hold them there until the large main gear starts to rotate, then remove the wire. The ice maker should advance through a complete cycle. When the rake arm advances and sets on the cubes, the heater should activate and loosen the cubes, rotate to the 1 o'clock position and start to fill the mold (4 to 4.5 oz. of water in 7 to 8 seconds), and the rake arm should halt at the 2 o'clock position. Make sure you hold the wire by the insulation (120 VAC) and you should be able to feel the heat from under the ice maker if the heater is working, but don't touch the bottom of the ice maker (HOT). Let us know what you observe and find, and we'll get you going.
lehughes5472  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 2, 2013 12:54:04 PM(UTC)
lehughes5472

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Thanks for your help. I completed the test on the ice maker and it does cycle through as it should, although I found I had to leave the jumper in through most of the cycle or it would stop shortly after I removed the jumper. The ice maker has been making ice okay, it's after it is in the bin it melts and then subsequently refreezes into large solid chunks of ice.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 3, 2013 5:38:35 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: lehughes5472 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for your help. I completed the test on the ice maker and it does cycle through as it should, although I found I had to leave the jumper in through most of the cycle or it would stop shortly after I removed the jumper. The ice maker has been making ice okay, it's after it is in the bin it melts and then subsequently refreezes into large solid chunks of ice.


Lehughes, That's a bit different. How often does this ocurr ? A few things to check, make sure both doors close and seal properly, the ice dispenser flapper door closes and seals, and the freezer temperature should average 0 to 5 dgrs.F.(air temp.)
If all's OK, you'll want to check the defrost system. The defrost heater should register 22 ohms resistance, draw 600 watts, or 5 to 6 amps when activated. The heater should remain on for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the defrost thermostat opens (approx. 45 dgrs.F.) The complete defrost cycle should take approximately 20 to 25 minutes. The cycle times may vary slightly because of the adaptive defrost control, but the resistance and other readings should be proper.
lehughes5472  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, April 3, 2013 8:07:20 AM(UTC)
lehughes5472

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Lehughes, That's a bit different. How often does this ocurr ? A few things to check, make sure both doors close and seal properly, the ice dispenser flapper door closes and seals, and the freezer temperature should average 0 to 5 dgrs.F.(air temp.)
If all's OK, you'll want to check the defrost system. The defrost heater should register 22 ohms resistance, draw 600 watts, or 5 to 6 amps when activated. The heater should remain on for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the defrost thermostat opens (approx. 45 dgrs.F.) The complete defrost cycle should take approximately 20 to 25 minutes. The cycle times may vary slightly because of the adaptive defrost control, but the resistance and other readings should be proper.

Thanks Joe, I will check the defrost unit as I suspect it is the culprit. All the doors and seals are fine. Is there a way to force the start of the defrost cycle so that I can monitor what is going on and the time it takes to cycle through it?
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, April 3, 2013 11:32:15 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: lehughes5472 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Joe, I will check the defrost unit as I suspect it is the culprit. All the doors and seals are fine. Is there a way to force the start of the defrost cycle so that I can monitor what is going on and the time it takes to cycle through it?


LEH, You should have the revised ADC Board,

Part number: AP4070403
Part number: AP4070403


To "force" start a defrost cycle, ensure the refrigerator/freezer are cooling, and the compressor is running. Cycle the cold control (freezer control) off and on three(3) times in six(6) seconds, The contacts must actually open and close, after the third cycle (off then on) of the cold control, allow 30 to 60 seconds, and the compressor should shut down, and the control will be in the defrost cycle. You'll be able to check the amperage draw with an amp meter, the wattage with a watt meter,and voltage with a multi meter, as you choose. The cycle time will vary depending on frost build up and cycle time from the last defrost cycle, but you have the basic information, you'll need. At this point you may have a "sticky" defrost thermostat or moisture or loose connection in the wiring harness.
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Thursday, April 4, 2013 6:01:14 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: adinalee111 Go to Quoted Post
This is really bad, i read this and found helpful information. Thanks a lot for sharing interesting information with us.

Ice Delivery company


You're Welcome
lehughes5472  
#8 Posted : Friday, April 26, 2013 11:41:04 AM(UTC)
lehughes5472

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Thank you for all your help so far. Upon further testing and observation I have found the cause of the problem is overflow of water from the ice maker into the bin. It doesn't happen every cycle, but at least once in a 24 hour cycle the ice maker will allow water to overflow into the ice bin and this is what is causing the cubes already in the bin to freeze together. I am not sure if it is from over flow during the fill process or running a cycle prior to the ice freezing and then overflowing. Do you have any ideas on how to isolate this problem?
Joe / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Friday, April 26, 2013 1:42:16 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: lehughes5472 Go to Quoted Post
Thank you for all your help so far. Upon further testing and observation I have found the cause of the problem is overflow of water from the ice maker into the bin. It doesn't happen every cycle, but at least once in a 24 hour cycle the ice maker will allow water to overflow into the ice bin and this is what is causing the cubes already in the bin to freeze together. I am not sure if it is from over flow during the fill process or running a cycle prior to the ice freezing and then overflowing. Do you have any ideas on how to isolate this problem?


Lehughes,

Check and or replace the water filter

Part number: AP4343710
Part number: AP4343710


if you haven't yet or recently. A clogged/dirty filter can cause water flow problems, that can cause the inlet valve to act irratic.

Otherwise the water inlet valve

Part number: AP4071513
Part number: AP4071513


is the most likely issue, The valve diaphram can get "sticky" and allow the water to overfill.
Asok Asus  
#10 Posted : Sunday, November 29, 2015 12:21:16 PM(UTC)
Asok Asus

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Originally Posted by: lehughes5472 Go to Quoted Post
I was having a problem with the refrigerator staying cool enough a few months ago so I replaced the adaptive control and it seemed to work much better. However I have since had a problem with ice melting and subsequently refreezing in the ice maker. The refrigerator also runs much colder even though the freezer is set at 4 and the refrigerator is at 3 1/2. Any ideas on what to check?



I had this ice-partially-melting-in-the-ice-container in my Kenmore/Frigidaire side-by-side, in-the-door ice dispenser.

In my case, I discovered the dispenser ice-chute flap-door wasn't closing all the way, letting warm air into the dispenser.

I used a flashlight and looked up at the outside of the flap-door, and sure enough it was gaping open by about 3/8 of an inch or so, letting in a continuous stream of warm room air to waft up through the dispenser and into the ice container, thereby causing the ice to melt and then refreeze into the dispenser works and interior chute below the container. Pushing against it would close it, but it would spring right back open, so something was wrong with the whole flap-door mechanism.

Fiddling round a bit, I found that the clear plastic ice chute had become dislodged, so the chute wan't being held in place like it should by having its top wedged behind the back of the top of the bezel that surrounds the whole exterior dispenser unit. Turns out the wedged chute is what holds the entire flap-door mechanism in place and that was why the flap-door wasn't shutting all the way. As soon as I snapped the clear plastic ice chute back into place, the flap-door worked perfectly!
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