Again something is weird with the below:

[COLOR="Blue"]I check the ohms, 11.8.[/COLOR]
This looks OK

There is 120V to Red wire at element, 0 to red/white when in off position.
I am assuming that the dryer is not running but the timer is on a heat mode.
Also that the reference side of the meter is Neutral or ground.
The 120 looks OK.
What is weird is that the other side of the element measures 0 volts.
I will try to explain this hopefully I will do a decent job of it.
Lest say you have a bare wire just connected to 120 volts (L1), then if you measure at any point along the wire you would expect to see 120 volts.
Now we attach a resistance (the heater) at the end of the wire.
Since there is not a complete circuit (which uses/drops the voltage), we would also expect to see 120 volts anywhere along the resistance.
Now if we attach the non wire end of the resistance to ground you will see 120 at the wire end of the resistance and 0 volts at the other end.
Current is flowing through the resistance, dropping the voltage.
So if you measure the voltage half way along the resistance you will see 60 volts

[COLOR="Blue"][COLOR="Blue"]120V both sides in running mode.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
This measurement is really not very useful as you do not know if you have L1 or L2 on bothy sides or L1 on one side and L2 on the othjer.

[COLOR="Blue"][COLOR="Blue"]To me, even though everything appears to be correct with the element, I am thinking it is the element.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
It is worth a shot but as you said things look sort of OK but it is worth a gamble replacing it.
One possibility is that there is a break in the element that is closed when cold but opens as soon as you try to get current to flow through the element.

[COLOR="Blue"] it will begin running, could this be A problem?[/COLOR]
It is a problem but it should not stop the heater from running.
Could be that the start switch contacts are welded together.

We really could use a wiring diagram!!!

I think your unit is a 110.96575100
This is actually made by Whirlpool.
I still cannot find the diagram on line.

Perhaps try the following.
It is a bit of a guess but many Whirlpools are wired this way.
Set the timer mid scale of a heat mode.
Use the most sensitive meter scale (normally 200 ohms). Short the meter leads together before starting so you know if there is any zero offset in the meter.

Unplug the unit
Attach one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
L1 (black) on the terminal strip in the unit should be zero ohms.
Both sides of Timer Switch 2 contacts should be 0 ohms. The wire going to the heater will probably be red.
Both sides of the thermal cut and the hi-limit thermostats on the heater housing should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (larger red wires, I think) on the blower case should be 0 ohms.
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms. The other side of the heater should be 11.8 ohms.

This side then goes to the centrifugal switch on the motor and then to L2 (red).